EPIGEAL
With some of the easy species you will get flowers in less than eighteen months and seeds will send up a leaf immediately after planting. Some specialists planted epigeal Lilium seed in late winter as it gives them more growth time before the coming season

HYPOGEAL
Slow germinating seeds require a warm period of about three months to make them germinate, (summer). Then, they need a cool rest time, again, approximately three months (winter), followed by another warm period to start leaf production (spring). The perfect time to plant for Hypogeal germinators is around mid summer. You need the patience to be able to follow this through and provide the necessary requirements during this time. It will be at least eighteen months before the first leaf is produced and not even a sign of a flower.

VARIATIONS

Seed from species will be true to type but hybrids will produce a multitude of variations. Seed from hybrids with mixed parentage such as : (Bold Knight x Tetra Nutmegger) x (4n x Avignon) will give a variation of colors from deep reds through to orange shades and also various flower types from upward- facing to outward-facing. Cross-pollinate these again to produce some more variations.

PLANTING and POTTING MIXES

Plant into seed boxes so that you can control the conditions and look after them properly. You will need to regulate watering, feeding and pest control for success. There are also various ideas regarding potting mixes to use for Liliums.

Here are a few suggestions of mixes I have come upon, used by Lilium growers, that you can try. 1 have used some of them successfully.

To make a large quantity for lots of plantings, use this formula :

Position or spread seeds on the mix in the container, firm down and cover over the seeds with an equal mixture of sand and Peat Moss to keep moisture over the seeds. Another method is to mix the seed with damp peat moss, seal in a plastic bag and keep it at around 22c. degrees until the seed has germinated. They will produce a little bulbil after about up to twelve weeks.
Then put the bag in the fridge (not the freezer) for about nine weeks, after which time, plant into your seed box.
Another method of propagation is by separation of the smaller bulbils which grow on the base of the mother plant of some species and these can be potted up on their own. Species like the Tiger Lily produce small stem bulbils between the leaves and the stem. These will drop off when mature and can be planted immediately and will flower in the second or third year.

Cutting the scales carefully off your Lilium bulbs is another method. Plant them in a good potting mix and they will also produce little bulbils which can be planted on.
Shade and mulching is important for Lilium bulbs in hot weather. They will grow well as long as they are protected on hot days by mulching the roots and giving them afternoon shade if possible, which will also help the flowers last longer. Lilium bulbs need good drainage and most do not like lime in the soil
Lilium bulbs, when being moved or dug up, must not be allowed to dry out. If need be, you can store them in damp peat moss for transportation or, until you are ready to plant them. Don't keep them out of the ground too long.
Use polypropylene tomato or fruit boxes containing about four to six inches of mix to plant seeds. Divide the box into sections and plant at least six different species or hybrids and label them accordingly. The advantage of using polystyrene boxes is that you can shift them around if need be or transport them easily in the boot of your car. Put them up on bricks or wood for good drainage and to keep snails at bay. 1 have even put them on top of each other for storage until the seeds germinate and need light. You can also cover the top with wet newspaper until the seeds germinate to keep the them moist. Alternatively, cover the top with shadecloth and place under polythene frames if needed.
The seedlings will be best left in the box for two seasons at least, so make sure you have enough soil for the roots to grow in. You can usually split up the seedlings and repot in the third year but you will possibly get some flowers in the second year. Use 5 inch pots for potting on, as smaller pots tend to dry out too quickly and heat up on hot days. Another idea is to line the pots with foil to stop the heat getting into the pots.
Feed Liliums regularly whilst growing on, with a liquid fertiliser, osmocote, or blood and bone. Give the seedlings morning sun and afternoon shade. Try cross pollinating your own Lilium plants and you may get some interesting results.
The different types of Liliums are classed as

1. asiatics
2. trumpets
3. aurelians
4. oriental hybrids
5. as well as all the true species
6. also, there is a long list of miscellaneous hybrids and other types available.
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As with most species, temperature plays an important part in the germination rate of seed.
Testing has shown that a Lilium species germinated in eighteen weeks at a temperature of 21c. Germination can be accelerated marginally if seed is dry stored at 21c. for six months.
Longer storage will result in about a 50% loss of seed. Another species was unique in the fact that it had 100% germination at 5c in the second month but seed sown at 21c did not germinate until the temperature was reduced to 5c. As you can tell, nature works in mysterious ways. Growing your own seed can be an interesting challenge with a rewarding result at the flowering stage.
Remember these points and you are on your way to successful Lilium growing.
Why not join the Lilium Society near you and learn more about this glorious species.

Bill Richardson

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