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-- Log 1 --
Swaziland
Border Crossing
We left South Africa through Golela for Swaziland. The South African
officials were polite and efficient. We arrived at Lavumisa on the other
side of the fence. We were well received and formalities were quickly
processed. Paid R5.00 for vehicle entry into Swaziland.
Accommodation
Mlawula Nature Reserve – R72 for two days for two people. Ablution
blocks were clean, there was hot water, and the sites were well planned,
lapa’s, good braai facilities and clean water nearby. There were plenty
of indigenous trees to provide shade. The only disadvantage was the
ticks.
GPS Location
S26.12.670 E032.00.041
Highlights/Lowlights
We enjoyed this Reserve, as one is able to get up close and personal
with the wild life. There are many various walking trails, and a bird
hide with good bird watching. Bush pigs, fed close to our site. We had
the camp to ourselves the first night and a couple arrived and set up
tent at the other end of the camp.
The road conditions were good.
Mozambique
Border Crossing
We left Swaziland through Lomahasha and entered Mozambique through
Namaacha. Were welcomed to Mozambique by a very irritating tout, who
told us that this was his home, so he would see us through! Finally the
Custom’s official put an end to his nagging. Were able to pay in ZAR for
our passport stamps R24.00 but were unable to pay in ZAR for the
custom’s form and had to exchange Rands with the touts outside in order
to pay our M12 000 for a yellow form – think this was a scam as there
were no Government price lists available! Vehicle insurance cost
ZAR85.00. The crossing was done on a Sunday and the border was very
quiet.
En-route
The road conditions from the border to Maputo were very good, as they
have just been re-tarred. Decided not to go into Maputo but to rather
head out to Casa Lisa on the EN1.
Accommodation
 Casa Lisa – US$5 per person per night. Cold water only in the ablutions,
but clean. Few trees, but each site has a small lapa to provide some
shelter.
GPS Location
S25.35.061 E032.39.319
Highlights/Lowlights
The staff were friendly and helpful. The site has a swimming pool and a
bar, which for the hot and thirsty is a great relief. Casa Lisa is
approximately 1 hour’s drive from Maputo and is close to the EN1
highway.
Our first introduction to the mosquito problem in Mozambique was quite a
shock! Somehow the mozzies managed to enter our tent in the droves! It
was not a pleasant night and we were grateful for the light of day!
Temperature hot, over 35 degrees and very humid.
En-route
We had our first puncture at 2 090 kms into our trip! Having never had
to change a tyre in MR W this was quite a daunting task! Den was
outstanding, and we managed to change wheels in double quick time. The
delay caused us to night stop at Inhambane, which in the end was a good
thing.
 Tofo Beach – Bamboozi’s – M320 000 for two nights and two people.
GPS Location – S23.50.488 E035.32.22 – 12 feet above sea level.
Highlights/Lowlights
A delightful site, set behind a large sand dune, to protect one from the
sea breeze. Plenty of Palm trees and newly, neatly made lapas. They have
good ablution facilities including hot water. The walk up the dune to
the restaurant and pub is well worth the walk as the view is
spectacular. Although it was very hot the cool sea breeze was a welcome
relief. Very few mosquitoes and we managed to catch up on our sleep. The
staff were helpful and this site appears to have a very personal touch
although it appeared that nobody knew where the owner had disappeared
to. Thanks to Alex, Pedro, Emmanuel and Angelo.
En-route
We made the most amazing discovery, we found where to get fresh,
excellent quality fruit and vegetables in the villages. The good stuff
is right in the centre of the market, and it is well worth scouting
around until you find what you are looking for. The people are very
friendly and helpful. We also discovered where to get freshly baked
“poa” local bread rolls which are absolutely delicious. Prices are
always good in the markets.
Morrungulo – US$7 per person per night
GPS Location – S23.14.175 E35.29.126
Highlights/Lowlights
Morrungulo is very much a South African home from home. The resort was
expecting to be very busy over the next two weeks, and was keeping sites
open for the bookings that had been made. This left us being parked
under trees right outside the gent’s toilet. Not only was this bad
positioning, it was very hot, humid and windless, together with the
smell of dirty drains, mosquito’s it made for a most unpleasant evening.
The ablutions were clean but there was only hot water if you provided a
cup of paraffin and your own toilet paper was required. We felt that for
the price, compared to what we had experience in Mozambique that
Morrungulo was over priced and over rated. In its defence we were able
to send an email home, most welcome, thank you. If you are looking for a
place away from home, but which is just like home, Morrungulo may be
what you are looking for. The weather was very hot and very humid; it
gave Durban in February a good go!
En-route
An uneventful drive.
 Campismo Vilankulo – US$ 5 per person per night - in season US$6 ppn
GPS Location – S22.00.23 E035.19.115
Highlights/Lowlights
The most welcome cool breeze off the ocean, what a relief from the heat,
welcomed us. The sites are grassed and shady and well maintained. The
beach is across the road. Security is in place and we were only bugged
by the hawkers shouting through the fence from the road. Johan arranged
a boat trip to the Islands and Two Mile Reef; although it started out
that this would be a more economical way to see the Islands it turned
out to be rather expensive, US$44 for two. Dennis did some trawling on
the way out to the islands and there was a lot of interest, but no real
takers. On the way back he finally managed to catch a fish – not just
any old fish – but a barracuda! My thoughts turned to a fridge full of
fish, and eating fish for MONTHS! Good fortune was on my side, the
barracuda was a baby, all of 1ft long, so Den threw it back – phew! As
this was one of our highlights, we took it with good grace. We were told
that the Rand had reached R12 to the US$ and M2 4000 to the dollar. Paid
our dues, and were short changed, due to “no change”! Such a small thing
can make one feel very unhappy. The morning we left there was no water
in the ablution block, rinsed off with the garden hose outside!
En-route
Crossed the toll road over the river Save, paid M10 000. Road works are
being done to the bridge and most of this section of road. There is a
mix of excellent patches and then some not so good ones with potholes.
We came across a tanker which had broken down on the wrong side of the
road on a blind rise – don’t ask! The usual tree cuttings were the only
warning that all was not well! We took the turn off before Casa Miska,
and had a good 30 minute delay, we were not too impressed – thank you
GPS, they are on the other side of the dam!
 Casa Miska – M30 000 per person per night.
GPS Location – S
Casa Miska is on the shores of the Chicamba Dam, which is about 60 kms
from Mutare in Zimbabwe. Although in Mozambique the lodge has a very
“Rhodie” feel about it. It is set in the mountains – 2 200 feet above
sea level. The temperature reached 38 in the shade, but without the
humidity it was quite comfortable.
Highlights/Lowlights
We met, and made friends with “Ollie” the ostrich, and “Bam-bam” the
duiker. They are very friendly and have entertained us enormously. Casa
Miska is on a Crocodile Farm.
The facilities are very good, hot showers, cold beers, a swimming pool,
lovely grassed lawns and a good restaurant!
Conferences are held here and we met a very interesting gentleman from
the Mozambique Government who was attending a conference on the youth of
the country. Mozambique is committed to their youngsters and are doing
everything possible to ensure their future.
Took a long trip +600 kms to Malawi, Blantyre. Although there were a few
potholed sections, in general the road was good.
Malawi
Border Crossing
We experienced an efficient crossing on the Mozambique side of the
border. On the Malawi side of the border we met a guy who was insistent
that we pay road tax in either US $ or ZAR, Den told him to have a great
trip! Border Officials were brilliant and even when they did not have
change they rounded up and not down, after a bit of a discussion.
Accommodation
First night at Doogles. A little noisey, but that soon died down. The
site is next to the bus terminal so bright and early we were given a
blow by blow account of what buses were going where! Still a good site,
and met a lovely overland couple!
GPS Location
Highlights
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