-- Log 19 --

 
Khartoum – Sudan

We tried Isaac’s place, but nobody was there and there were a lot of flies in the area. The National Camping Ground – formerly a military camp – was very busy and had the junior Sudanese Soccer Team there, so it was very noise, but the price of 1000 Dinar pn for two was not too bad, and finally we went to the Blue Nile Sailing Club, which is located very centrally. It is such a pity the rates are so high.

Blue Nile Sailing Club – Khartoum – N5.36.698 E32.32.076 – 1257 ft amsl -17/08/02 – 26/08/02 - $3 pppn + $5 pd for MR W pd = $11 pd

We met us with a fellow South African – Sorrel, a biker, who had driven up on his own and was now planning to go through to Egypt. It was great to see another GP plate in a place so far from home. Also at the club was a Norwegian, also a biker, Erling. He had travelled through just about all the African countries, and was a great source of information – he even managed to get arrested in Chad! There was a couple from Denmark who had just arrived from Wadi Halfa, so with such a great source of information around we decided to stay at the Club.

The water at the club appears to be rather suspect as it comes directly from the Blue Nile, and both bikers had severe infections in what started out to be small insignificant wounds – they have put it down to the water. The showers do not have running water and we have to resort to bucket baths – at bit much considering the price we are paying.

Down to business, we found the Alien Registration people, stood in a queue, until Den eventually decided to try the ‘back door’ and was soon attended to, but we would have to go back in half an hour for the Photostat lady to return (she was on lunch) half an hour later, Photostats done, we found ourselves once again standing outside, baking in the afternoon sun, waiting for an official to show up to stamp our passports and take our $20 each. He got back to work a good hour after he was due to, and then took his time getting down to the job at hand! We once again tried the ‘back door’ route, and were served promptly, but our letter from the Blue Nile Sailing Club did not have an official stamp, which put our passports at the bottom of the huge pile of passports. Eventually (by now we were exasperated) after much pleading and explaining, we got our much sort after stamp!



It was good to get back to the Club and relax and chat to fellow travellers – it never ceases to amaze us as to what people are doing – there is such a great sense of adventure in youngsters from all over the world.

We applied for our Egyptian visa, and collected it the same day, they were very efficient, unlike what the Lonely Planet had reported, which was refreshing. We also located the Libyan Embassy, but could not find anyone who could speak English. Den made an appointment to speak to someone the next day. Next day, we found ourselves back at the Libyan Embassy, this time they took our letter of recommendation from the SA Embassy and told us to get back to them in a week’s time. What are we going to do in Khartoum for a week! Sorrel had left via train for Wadi Halfa and Eva and Deet had left for Ethiopia, leaving Erling and us.

We decided to try and get MR W’s small ailments sorted out. Den thought a good place to find a German mechanic would be the German Culture Centre. As it turned out the Curator was able to assist and took us through to the garage the next day. As it turns out the guy he had in mind was in Germany, but we found a really brilliant chap across the road from the original garage. Ash, the owner of the garage was able to help us straight away, and replaced the flasher unit, and checked for a reason why we would have the shudder on the brake – short of the back brake lining being a little thin (still 1000 kms left on them) he could not find the problem.

By the time we had returned to the Club the flashers were not working again! Den decided he would start at the battery and move methodically through the vehicle until he found the problem! First up, a burnt wire on the battery, having repaired that, he enquired from a helpful on looker where one could get a ‘chocolate block’. The chap was quick to get on his cell phone and contact someone who could help. Next thing, two guys arrive (with a plastic bag of tricks) to come to our assistance – an Electrical Technician – doing house calls! He replaced the damaged wiring, but was still not happy that that was the source of the problem. Eventually between Den and the two technicians they found a minute section of wiring that was shorting on the car by the indicator itself. As soon at that was replace the problems went away! It was a full afternoons work, but worthwhile. The charge – ‘as you feel’! One of the guys is involved with the local scout group and asked Den if he would give the boys a talk on our travels and experiences. The group were camping on the grounds next door to the club, so it was very convenient. Den did the talk; much to the youngsters’ pleasure and he gave them a conducted tour of MR W.


Khartoum Sea Scouts

We have decided to take a drive out to take a look at the Meroe Pyramids for a couple of days to kill time. We stocked up on water – 1 000 Dinar for 18.9 litres (5 gallons US) of mineral water. While we were loading the water, Michael Wood arrived (we met him and his delightful wife Magda in Eldoret), and invited us to his place for a drink!

It was great to meet up with them again, unfortunately for us, but fortunately for them, they left the next day for England where they were going on holiday. It was so good to spend time with you! Thanks for the supper and drinks! We hope to see you in South Africa – beers on us.

The Royal City of Meroe – 592 BC to 350 AD







We found the pyramids and were especially impressed with the amazing relief pictures inside the tombs – it is the first time we had seen such things.

Much of the restoration work had been done in 1976 and 1977, but nothing much has happened since then, which is a pity, as they are starting to deteriorate again.

The campsite is 4 kms into the desert from the pyramids, but we stopped after about 1.5 kms as the sand was getting very soft and we were on our own. The spot we chose was next to a huge sand dune and it was a very beautiful site. The first night was stunning, and the next day there was a bit of wind, but other than that it was a lovely day. We were visited early in the morning by a guy on a camel and another on a donkey, who set our their trinkets in front of our tent in the hopes that we would buy them!

As evening closed on the second day, we watched the sky turn red and the wind come up (not good signs in the desert), through out the night the wind blew a gale – we estimate 70 – 80 kph. We battened down the tent as best we could and prayed that the tent would withstand the battering. Then to add to our woes it started to RAIN! We could not believe it! It poured for about an hour, and then stopped, but that did nothing to stop the wind – it just kept blowing! Having had a sleepless night we were up and out of there first thing in the morning. To our utter surprise as we were leaving we came across Erling – who had camped at the pyramids and had also had a very unpleasant night – he had got soaked as well as having to battle the wind! Poor chap!



Back in Khartoum we are still not happy with the shudder on the brakes so take MR W to Ash again. This time Ash discovers that the seals etc on the right hand side shaft have worn – normal wear and tear! So we had it replaced …..

William – the chap in charge at the Blue Nile Sailing Club, got married on Sunday 25/08/02 and had his reception at the Club. It was a very festive and interesting affair.

Our week is up, so back to the Libyan Embassy, unfortunately they were not able to help us too much. We must get our visa in Egypt, but Dennis did manage to get them to write a letter to the Libyan Embassy in Egypt recommending that they issue us with a transit visa.

Now that nothing is keeping us in Khartoum we shall try and get into Egypt, firstly though it took us over an hour to find the road out of Omduman for Dongola! Road signs would make such a difference!

SPECIAL NOTE: Due to American sanctions against Sudan it is not possible to cash American Express Traveller’s Cheques at this time. Hard US currency is widely accepted.