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-- Log 25 --
Twiga Lodge – Tiwi Beach – S04.14.458 E039.36.167 – 10 ft amsl -
16/10/02 – 29/10/02 – KS 160 pppn
Our drive through Mombassa was quick, although the town is full of taxis
and the usual chaos. Fortunately we were able to get to the ferry
without too much hassle.
At the ticket office the charges were very confusing – Land Rover Class
– KS50 and the officer-grouped MR W in the 6-metre class – KS95. We felt
that was very unfair as MR W is nowhere near 6 metres in length. Anyway
we paid our dues and then found out from Craig that they too had had the
debate and eventually were charged KS50 – so we took one of their
receipts and in future will use it as proof of payment.
At Tiwi Beach, Margaret and Joseph warmly greeted us and we quickly set
us camp. We soon realized that this was going to be a long stay. Tiwi
Beach is a stunning place.
Indian Ocean from our veranda
We met with Alex and Craig who had been ‘stuck’ there for weeks.
Eventually they had to drag themselves away – only because their visa
was due to run out! What a shame. We enjoyed our chats and hearing about
your experiences in Zambia. It is always so refreshing to meet with
other overlanders. For us, that is what it is all about. We shared meals
together and really got on well.
We loved what you had done to your cruiser and wish you safe travels
through Tanzania and Mozambique – enjoy.
We took a walk along the beach and found the infamous ‘Africa Pool’. As
the locals say ‘welcome to Africa’. It is incredible, we were not able
to get a pic of the whole pool as we could not get high enough – but it
is definitely in the perfect shape of Africa – it even has Madagascar!
Africa Pool - in the perfect shape of the continent of Africa – Tiwi
Beach
Fun at Africa Pool
Further on there is another pool which go into caves, and the caves have
bats in them – really good stuff. The snorkelling in the pools was great
as well. We just had to time our visits to coincide with low tide.
Many of the locals were very concerned about our carrying a camera to
this area and we received many warnings about being robbed at
knifepoint. We were careful and are grateful that we got the photos
without incident. It is such a pity that they have not been able to
curtail the robberies, as the area has great potential.
The seawater was warm and crystal clear – you can view fish without even
getting wet!
Guess who turned up?
We were delighted to meet up with our ‘kids’ again. So we stayed on some
more – you really do get stuck at Twiga Lodge – it is one of those
places that are very difficult to leave. They travelled the dreaded
Marsabit road and managed to get through unscathed, although it did take
them 3 days. That road really is no joke. They had done some touring in
Kenya, and were on their way to Malinidi. They spent some time in
Mombassa and as it was growing late they asked where the nearest decent
campsite would be – they were directed to Twiga – what luck!
As always when we are with ‘the kids’ we have the most brilliant meals!
We manage somehow to use whatever we have to concoct some tremendous
cuisine; we even got Alex and Craig in on the act. We bravely bought
fish and had two fish braai’s – pretty good too! You want for nothing,
as every morning the locals arrive with fresh fish, prawns, crabs and
fruit and veggies.
We met some very interesting characters at the campsite, people from
Netherlands, Germany, Israel, Britain and youngsters from Nairobi
University. We all have one thing in common – great difficulty in
leaving Twiga Lodge!
Eventually we decide we had better get a move on, else we would still be
there by Christmas (and besides, the short rains had began) – so, off to
Tanzania …
The border crossing at Lunga Lunga (Kenya) and Horohoro was quick and
uneventful – the usual 90 mins.
As evening approach is became time to look for a good place to spend the
night ….
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