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-- Log 22 --

 
Nyanga - Zimbabwe

Mare Camping Ground (the turn off is opposite the reception turn off if you are interested) – Z$ 150 pppn – did not stay, we were put off by the sign – see below – call us chicken is you wish!



We decided to look for another option, and as we are getting a taste for luxury decided to stay at the lodge on the shores of a trout dam.

Rainbow Lodge – Nyanga Camp – S18.17.745 E032.46.235 – 6 691ft amsl –
Z$1 500 per lodge per night (5 sleeper) – 02/12/02 – 05/12/02



Mare Dam – Nyanga National Park – stocked with Rainbow and Brown Trout.

The Lodge was very comfortable, with sleeping arrangements for 5 people, a fireplace, and kitchen with a coal stove, and lounge/dining area. We found the coal stove to be a bit of a challenge. Making breakfast took all morning on our first attempt at working the coal stove – what with lots of smoke and no heat! After that though we got the thing taped! We enjoyed all the ‘winter’ foods, which we have missed – like soup and curries! Yummy!



We took a drive out to Troutbeck – decided to use the back route – which included some interesting 4x4 driving – sections of the road have not been used in a very long while. It was fun – again! At least we came out unscathed this time. We enjoyed a little game viewing – saw the healthiest hartebeest we have ever seen – lovely specimens. The area is truly stunning and we have enjoyed the cool crisp air.

Time to set off for even greener pastures – this time Mutare and Mvumba (we have been told that there is a farm which produces some excellent cheese – a must find!)

Along the way we came across the Mutare Caravan and Camping Grounds, which are not bad, just a little close to the highway – S18.56.860 E032.38.548 – 4 313 ft amsl – ZD650 pppn. We did not stay, as it was too early in the day, so we trekked off to Mvumba.

The drive to Mvumba was outstanding, beautiful mountain scenery, and views of lakes, and rivers below. Driving through forests and mountain passes on good roads was a real treat.

At Mvumba we found the Vumba Gardens, a National Park. They have a stunning caravan site and camp ground (S19.07.137 E032.46.969 – 5 128 ft amsl – ZD 125 pppn with US$10 pp entrance fee – Lodge Z$1 250 pn) with amazing views, the only problem we had was that it had been booked out for the weekend for a social function – which left us temporarily ‘homeless’. We decided to have a cup of coffee (innocent enough) and contemplate our next move! Fortunately there was a delightful little coffee shop at the turn off.

Tony’s Coffee Shoppe – an experience of note! Tony serves coffee, tea, hot chocolate and 4 different types of cakes during the week. What we did not know is that Tony is a Chef extraordinaire and he was able to make a menu of the above, a metre long! The selection was mind boggling, but with Tony’s help we placed our order and enjoyed the extraordinary fare. The prices were unbelievably expensive (US$ 7.00 for two coffees, 1 slice of chocolate cake and 1 slice of fruit cake) BUT the experience was worth it! It certainly was a treat!

Fortunately for us, just up the road from Tony’s was the Ndundu Lodge where we were able to camp.

Ndundu Lodge – S19.07.075 E032.46.562 – 5 380 ft amsl – Z$700.00 pppn – 06/12/02

We made supper, spent some time in the lounge (where it was warm) and then hit the sack. During the night we heard the gentle patter of rain, and enjoyed the coolness. Next morning the fog, and rain had settled in, and did not look like it would be lifting for the day. We decided to take our chances and still try and find ‘the farm’.

As we descended the mountains the weather cleared and we had a very enjoyable drive through the lower lying forests. We found Crake Valley Farm, only to discover it was not open on Saturday! DASH and DARN! Fortunately there is a small local shop nearby which sold the precious cheese! The cheese certainly lives up to its reputation – very good stuff!

Having stocked up on cheese, we decided to try out the hot springs – unfortunately our Zimbabwe book is a little outdated and the Lodge at the Hot Springs no longer allows camping – Accommodation with 3 meals – ZD17 000. We decided to press on to Masvingo.

On the way we crossed the Birchenough Suspension Bridge over the Save River.
It is an amazing sight – no photos - unfortunately people are touchy about taking photos of bridges.

There is a lovely caravan park in Masvingo, on the shores of the river, but also close to the highway. There was not a sole there – not even the caretaker, so we decided to go to Lake Kyle.

Kyle View Holiday Resort – S20.15.051 E030.59.820 – 3 446 ft amsl – ZD650 pppn – 07/12/02

The park is a shadow of its former glory, now run down and tatty, but it was a place to stay. The food in the restaurant was good, but the service was appalling, even though the staff were pleasant. Aah … it was for only one night.

Next up …




 

Last updated: 15/12/2002 16:57:56
Created by: Martin Solms

Part of The Africa Overland Network