-- Log 7A --

Time to move on … We have decided to try and get closer to the Kenyan border, and stay a while till everybody is better. We set our tracks for Musoma. The scenery is amazing, and there is plenty of game to be seen even though we are not in a National Park. The gnu’s are crossing the main road to join up with the others in Serengeti.

As we arrived in Musoma we passed a guy riding his bicycle up the hill with the BIGGEST fish I have ever seen on the back carrier! The huge fish is a Nile Perch, and it would feed a family for a month! On the subject of bicycles, we have seen bikes carry enormous loads of wood, coal, people (up to 5), you name it, it can be carried, with out a doubt this is the number one mode of transport! The bikes have only one gear, so there is a LOT of pedal power!

The campsite that was advertised in Musoma was not to our liking, on a small beach in a filthy bay, and ablution facilities were in the hotel, quite a long way away. We felt we could do better, and started scouting around. We decided to split up, and search for better accommodation. Eventually Den and I found a hotel, which had “container” rooms, which we could use for $3 pppn. Henri and Jenny were more fortunate; they found a mission, which had a house available for our use at a very reasonable rate.

By this time Henri and Dennis were both feeling very ill. Henri had gone to the local dispensary and got some medication. It was unanimously decided that we would rest up at the house, dry our goods and shackles and generally sort our selves out!

Makoko Family Centre – Musoma – GPS S01.29.745 E033.46.469 – 3 847 ft AMSL – Donation of TS1 000 pppn – 03/05/02

The house was an absolute blessing for us all. It came at a time when we most needed the shelter and rest. The people at Makoko Family Centre were exceptionally good to us. God really does love us and He knows how much we can take, and what we need when we need it. Being with God’s family was a haven of peace and rest for each of us. Thank you Father William for your ministry and care.

Joshua 1:9 “Remember that I have commanded you to be determined and confident! Don’t be afraid or discouraged for I, the Lord your God am with you wherever you go”.

Although we are not all 100% better – Sue has joined the “sickies”, we feel we are strong enough to move on.

We make our way to the Kenyan Border at Sirari. The officials were most helpful and pleasant. We used our carnet for the first time, and all went well. Unfortunately during the usual hassle of touts and money changes we managed to slip up and instead of changing our $100 at the rate of KSh80 to 1 $, we changed KSh8 – 1$ , which effectively meant that we lost $90. By the time we realized the mistake the money changes had all disappeared! A tough lesson learnt, NB not a scam just stupidity on our part, we obviously made somebody’s day. As Allan would say “how can anyone be so stupid and still breath!”

We left the border and decided to night stop in Kericho. This area is “Kenyan Tea Country”. And a far as the eye can see there is neat tea estates. Without a doubt this is a beautiful country. We hit a patch of road +- 2kms long that was the worst road we have ever been on. The road is in the middle of the town of Kisumu – not good stuff at all! We lost Henri and Jenny there and waited for them, eventually we decided that they must have decided to night stop somewhere else and we moved on to the Tea Hotel, as it was getting dark. Henri and Jenny finally arrived about an hour later; they had to drive very slowly on the bad roads.

Tea Hotel – Kericho – GPS S00.21.935 E035.17.542 – 6 675ft AMSL – KSh200 pppn – 08/05/02

The hotel is a relic of a bygone era! Built by Brooke Bond in 1900 it is very beautiful. Henri and Jenny decided to leave for Nairobi the next morning and Dennis and I decided to stay another night. We walked into town, exchanged money, and looked for supplies. Dennis also got a rough quote from Toyota to fit two leaf springs to Mr W rear shocks, as we are very concerned about the shocks and springs. The chaps would did not give us a written quote, so we decided it would have to wait till we get to Nairobi.

Dennis met with Stanley, a casual worker at the hotel, and we were able to give him a bible. He was very keen to join a bible school, but of course, finding the funds was a problem. Interesting enough since we have been in Kenya we have see such a lot of churches. Going into the town of Kericho there are sermons being preached in the streets, and Christian music playing in most of the stores. A lot of work has been done for the Lord amongst these people.

Fisherman’s Camp – Lake Naivasha – GPS S00.49.739 E036.20.229 – 6 243 ft AMSL – KSh 200 pppn – 10/05/02

Happy Birthday Keith! GBU

On our own again we set off for Fisherman’s camp at Lake Naivasha about 100 kms from Nairobi. We really do not want to go to Nairobi, so I suppose we are putting off the inevitable. Fisherman’s Camp was delightful. We watched the Fish Eagles, ducks, crakes, etc. The bird life there is very good, with a large variety of different species. The setting is good, and the facilities not too bad. There were two trucks with overlanders on board. It was good to speak to folk who had come down from the North, and to get advise and information from them. We were stuck once again by the attitude of these young people. They are so positive, bubbly and excited about life. It is very infectious and good to be with them.

There is much to see around Lake Naivasha, the Hells Gate National Park, Joy Adamson Museum, and the lake itself. The area is covered with plastic hot houses, all growing flowers mostly roses for export.

Hells Gate National Park has brilliant scenery, and a lot of plain animals, like the Thompson’s Gazelle, Antelope, Buffalo, Zebra etc. One is able to walk or ride a bicycle through the park amongst the animals. For us the Park was of special interest because of the volcanoes and geothermal sites. We found the concept of tapping power by this method very interesting. It does concern us that they are over exploiting the area and are not taking much care to preserve the environment. The only evidence of environmental care came in the form of a tree nursery. Come on guys, get your act together and preserve this beautiful area.

Naiburta Camp Site – Hell’s Gate National Park – GPS S00.52.067 E036.20.996 – 6500 ft AMSL – Camping $2 pppn, Park entrance $15 pppd and Ksh200 for vehicle – 12/05/02

The campsite was extremely basic, with a long drop loo, and coldwater shower, but we loved it there. We could easily have stayed longer. We were on a hill which forms a cliff, where eagles nest. We were able to watch the animals at the watering hole. The place was very peaceful and refreshing. We took a drive to the viewpoint over Lake Naivasha, and were surprised to find that we were at 7 400 ft GPS S00.50.825 E036.19.106 – a stunning view!

Upperhill Campsite – Nairobi – GPS refer road map – Ksh300 pppn – 12/05/02

Next stop, Nairobi. We found Upperhill Campsite quite easily and managed to get through the traffic unscathed. Upperhill was a great disappointment to us. We found the site muddy, with insufficient shelter, it is well patronized by locals and therefore is very noisy. Jenny and Henri had almost completed all that they had to do and they were ready to leave Nairobi. They had not found it to be a good experience, having had their vehicle chained, been accosted by con artists and hassled by street children they were ready to go back to the country.

We arrived to share a very special occasion with Henri, as he celebrated a 50 year dream and that was to drive to Nairobi – in the dream it was on motor bike, but Gypsey Rover is just as good. All the best Henri – and may many more of your dreams come true!

 

We arrived in Nairobi on Saturday afternoon, and had been given the name of a company which fitted shocks by Sofie and Roland, so we set out to find the place, although we knew they would be closed. We did find the Mitubushi Centre open and they knew where Rob’s Magic was, but advised us to go through to Old Man Emu which was close by. We found Robert at Old Man Emu and he suggested we get back to them on Monday and they would see what they could do to help us solve our shock problem. Come Monday, we went through to OME and got the quote – WoW what a shock! OME quoted Ksh42 000, R6 000 for four additional leaf-springs! Off we went to find out what Rob’s Magic could do. His quote was much more to our liking, so we asked him to go ahead, knowing that we would loose our guarantee with OME, but willing to take that chance.

Just as a matter of course, Mike asked Dennis if he would like them to check the shocks, first Den said it was okay, then thought it through and decided that we should check the shocks. BUMMER … the two back shocks were shot! The front ones did not appear to be up to standard either. To make a very long and painful story short we ended up putting in 4 new shocks (good salesmen? – no it was necessary) and 4 extra leaf-springs. While MrW was on the pit having the wheel alignment done we discovered that two bolts on the front DIFF bell-housing had sheared and the side shafts had to be removed to repair them, cost (two bolts KSh200, labour KSh5500) the total exercise KSh63000. With regard to OME it must be said that they did honour the warranty on the rear shocks so now we carry a full set of OME shocks for MrW. Just a word of advice to overlanders from the RSA, consider carefully the brand of shocks you use, The rear OME blew after 18000km of which 8000km were on the journey. Prices are horrific in Kenya and I am not sure if there is anything decent in Tanzania or further north e.g. a full OME suspension system cost R16000 (just before the Rand went stupid) in the RSA and the same thing in Kenya +- KSh204, 000 which is +-R30, 000 (shop wisely) NB Robs Magic is on the Mombassa road opposite Vita Foam 10 – 12 km from Nairobi –ask for Mike and he will surely be able to help you-highly recommended.

We found HP East Africa, and were referred to their warranty centre. Zaire was extremely helpful and did everything in his power to assist us to repair the camera. Unfortunately he started to get tied up in HP red tape and came to a standstill. By now we were not too patient and decided to visit the MD of HP East Africa. He was most accommodating and listened to our sorry tale, and offered to assist us in finding a solution. By the time we arrived the Warranty Centre, Claire had already received a call and was waiting for us. We have left the camera with Claire and Zaire whilst we are in Uganda in the hopes that they will be able to help us out. Although we are a very little fish in a big ocean we received excellent service and attention. Lets hope we will return to Nairobi to some good news.

Having been forewarned by Henri and Jenny about the street children we went into town prepared! The kids saw us coming and jumped onto the running boards demanding “give me money or I will break your mirror!”. Out came the roll of newspaper and WACK on their hands! They got such a fright, and then looked more closely in the car and saw ‘Mr snakey’ – THE DEVIL! was the shout followed by much debate as to how they would kill the devil. The kids never came to bother us again! Thanks Terri!

By now we had had enough of spending unnecessary money in chunks and could not wait to get out of Nairobi. We managed to get our Ugandan visas, and to stock up on supplies at a great centre near Upperhill Camp called the Ya Ya Centre – it has shops just like home! One very good thing that we did manage to get in Nairobi was stickers for nearly all the countries we intend to visit. We are putting them on the doors of Mr W as we enter the countries. We have found that they are a very good talking point, especially with the locals.