ACONCAGUA

• Cerro Aconcagua is located in Argentina, it is situated approximately 32° south of the Equator, in the mountain range of Los Andes. This places Aconcagua at a latitude equal to that of the Himalayas in the northern hemisphere. Simultaneously, with the decrease in an almost 50% of their width, this region of the Los Andes is susceptible to frequent precipitation.
• The mountain range properly introduces a line of double peaks that frames tall valleys located in Argentina.
• Three of the mountainous giants of South America stand out in this central zone of the mountain range, located in the Argentine cities of San Juan and Mendoza. They are: the Mercedario (6670 m), the Aconcagua (6960 m) and the Volcan Tupungato (6650 m).
• The range is defined to the north by Aconcagua and by Tupungato to the south, which is then divided into two deep valleys heading from east to west and united between them by the Iglesia and Bermejo passes.
• In the surrounding area, there are many mountains that surpass 5000 meters, where it is possible to apply all types of mountaineering techniques, from a simple ascension to more technical rock and ice ascension. Starting with the most difficult, these are: Cuerno (5462 m) covered almost completely in perpetual ice, Tolsa (5430 m), Cathedral (5535 m), De los Dedos (5018 m), Mexico (5083 m), and Almacenes (4510 m), in the Valley of Horocones, and the Cupula (5250 m) In the Valley de Vacas. These are only a few of the difficult ascents found in this area.
• The effort of climbing to an altitude of almost 7,000 meters on Aconcagua is generally considered equal to an altitude of several hundred meters more, compared to Himalayan conditions. Climbers familiar with Andean and Himalayan climbing conditions have reported this observation, however, the reason for this is not known.

  One possible explanation may be the irregularity of the Earth’s crust featuring a swelling protuberance in this region, which puts the summit of Aconcagua about 2 km’s outside the perfect sphere of the globe. Vegetation in the area around Aconcagua reaches around 3,500 m, corresponding to around 5,000 meters in the Nepal Himalayas. These conditions may, at least in part, be explainable by a harsher, colder and more oxygen deprived climate, due to the Earth’s irregularities and a resulting lower atmospheric pressure in this region.

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Orgin of the name

• There is still a discussion on the derivation and meaning of the name Aconcagua. Some specialists researching the origin of the name Aconcagua, say it comes from the language aimara, in which the words "acon" and "cagua" would mean "Snowy Mount". On the other hand, some specialists believe it is derived from the "quechua", in which the word "Ackon-Cahuac" would translate literally to "Sentry or Stone ".
• In language "araucana" "Acon-ca-gua" it would be an expression applied by "mapuche" the river also named Aconcagua, located in Chile, that according to old beliefs supposed that this river was born within the Aconcagua mountain

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During the antique years the "araucanos" and the "aymaras" lived in America (on both sides of the massive continent). Later the Incas, who came from distant Cuzco, invaded these regions carrying with them their culture and the sweetness of their language: the "quechua". There is no information, however, about their raids for the high mountain range. The mountain remains free of legends because of the sheer height of its passes and the loneliness of the high summit beat by winds and covered in glaciers. Furthermore, this region is known similar to Los Andes Cuyanos. At the beginning of 1985, an Incan mummy was discovered by mountaineers at 5000 meters in an infrequently traveled region of the mountain. The body, was that of a young Incan, sacrificed at this altitude, and next to him offerings such as feathers and statuettes were found.

In 1817, General Jose de San Martin, "the first mountaineer of America" crossed the high pass frontier between Argentina and Chile for the region of the giant "andinos" Aconcagua, Mercedario and Tupungato. In the north and south of Aconcagua, an army pass consisting of more than 5300 soldiers, with 9280 mules and 1600 horses, destined for "collados" arrived unsuspected in Chile, liberating the country of its Spanish dominance. The surprise of an unexpected route, like a classical strategy, decided the success of San Martin and the conclusion of the long Spanish domain in this region of Los Andes central.

In 1835, Charles Darwin arrived by ship at the port of Valparaiso, Chile. This was one of the first scientists interested in recording information about the mountain.

With Darwin, the French Pierre-Joseph Pissis and General San Martin, the first studies were offered and scientific information about Aconcagua and its environment was recorded.

Other routes offering even more technical difficulties than the Polish Glacier Route abound on the other faces and ridges of the mountain. The classic South Face of Aconcagua is an infamous vertical wall of rock, ice and hanging glaciers, presenting for the aspiring climber some of the most treacherous climbing on the planet.

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By the park entrance there is a small rather newly built house where some park guards works, handing out information folders to the climbers. From the park entrance we are hiking to Confluencia, just beside the mighty mountain Amalernes. It is a 16 kilometer trek up to 3100 meters. In altitude 400 meters.

From the park entrance to Plaza de Mulas climbers can hire mules to carry some of their gear and food up. But from this point up climbers have to carry the equipment they need on their own. Many people go up the next section twice. The main reason for this is to bring up food and gear, and adjust to the altitude. It's a long hike to Nido de Condores, a middle station and a possible Camp 2.

From Canada you have the last part up with all your gear to Camp 2, Nido de Condores. Nido de Condores is lying in the pass between Aconcagua and Cerro Manso at 5350 meters. Here many climbers take another day to rest.

From this point two alternative routes are possible: the first one is to scale all the way to the summit, an exhausting climb in itself. The second one is to reach refuge Independencia (6500 m) and from there, on the following day, go up to the top. The first alternative is the most usual.

Ascending and descending many climbers follows the rock of the Northwest up to the peak. There you will find numerous shelters. This northern route does not present technical difficulties, but climbers can meet difficulties as unbearable coldness, tiredness and storms of an incredible force.

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To the top of Aconcagua it can be a sweet walk in the sun with only a strong breeze from the gods of winds saying hello (not that common though). But when the fury of the god of winds is unleashed and the clouds swallow the sky, the summit can be transformed into a terrifying and freezing monster. The weather can always be very hard to predict, but with better knowledge you can prevent getting yourself into a dangerous situation.

The central Argentine Andes and particularly Aconcagua, receive the humid winds from the anticyclonic centers in the Pacific Ocean. The Climatic phenomenon named Zonda wind has a similar explanation to the Foehn wind in Europe. The Pacific anticyclone sends humid winds toward the East, so the Andes receives them from the West. When these humid winds reach the mountains, they go up, decreasing their temperature and generating snow. Then these dry masses of air go down the East side of the Andes, increasing their temperature. (adiabatically). This movement of air from the Pacific Ocean is the first cause of wind and snowstorms on Aconcagua.

Also, I found out that there are some electrical storms during the summer. It is important not to underestimate their power. The summit, the ridges and all the Northwest face of the mountain are all extremely exposed to lightening. The Polish Glacier and the South wall are less exposed. There is a particular phenomenon on this mountain, because of its relatively large dimensions. Sometimes it blows a high altitude strong wind from the west, that affects the highest part of the mountain (more than 5500 m) forming a huge mushroom cloud consisting of micro crystals of ice. Even with good weather in Plaza de Mulas, the presence of a mushroom cloud is a signal of strong wind and snow at high altitude. To get inside this cloud formation can be very dangerous. It is imperative to descend to a lower altitude on the mountain when its imminent formation is detected. About temperature, even in good weather it is common to register -20'C. During bad weather or in the presence of air masses coming from the South, the Temperature in Plaza de Mulas can be as low as - 18'c, and below - 25'c in the upper sector of the mountain. Still, during the average day or night, the temperature is known to fluctuate. It is therefore possible to wear swimsuits at midday in Plaza de Mulas (4200 m) or to wear only a shirt and a light coat on the summit at the same hour.

These thermal fluctuations, oblige us climbers to be always alert, and as I said “prepare for the worst”. During winter, the area is covered with snow. Winds are violent and permanent. Temperature is rarely above 0'C. In shaded places, it is always several degrees below 0'C. Climbing Aconcagua in winter is a hard psychophysics experience. It requires extensive experience and high quality equipment to be able to do winter camping here.

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When you read books and reviews about climbing mountains, I think they very often exaggerate just a bit. Sometimes because the writer wants to make it sound as they have done something really hard, dangerous or impossible. Of course they are to a certain point right, climbing high altitude mountains is dangerous. However you might be killed by a car when crossing the street in your home town. Up on a mountain you are in a place where it is cold, there is minimal visibility and you are often very tired. Yes, of course the chances of you hurting yourself are imposing. You have to be able to set your limits; only you can decide when it is time to rest or to turn back. You have to have respect for the nature, the mountain and the weather. It can be lovely, or it can make you fight for your life. You also have to be sure you have the right medicine, knowledge and emergency equipment if something happens. Which is hard since you want to bring up the most minimal load.

During the 1998-99 season, the mountain took another 5 lives, amounting to a total of 90 during its history of human exploration. Due to the relative accessibility of the mountain and the non-technical nature of the Normal Route, Aconcagua is probably the most frequently attempted high-altitude climb of any mountain. During a normal season, some 4,000 climbing permits are issued. Due to the extreme altitude, sudden changes in weather conditions, the extreme cold, the oxygen deprived air, and long time spent at altitudes above the sustainable recovery limit of the human body, reaching the summit is no simple task.

At the official web site for Aconcagua they tell you this: .."The maximum responsibility to be the owner of your own actions and to know and respect your own limits. You chose to come here, and on a mountain you are responsible for those choices. Mountaineering is a game, a sport, and a discipline that you have chosen freely and practice in freedom. The playing field, the high mountain, is highly demanding and the sanctions of savage nature are immediate and unavoidable. Passing your own limits implies grave consequences, not only for yourselves. All of the variables of this game are predictable (depending on the amount of experience, common sense, and intelligence of those who play it). But not all of the predictable variables are manageable. Storms, avalanches, etc, are predictable but not manageable. Technique, training, equipment, choice of companions, strategy, tactic, knowledge, freedom, and responsibility, are predictable and manageable. In the great mountains you are alone against your own choice and you are the author of your own destiny.."

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To climb a high altitude mountain will affect your body in several different ways. The affect may be mild or severe and occurs because less oxygen reaches the muscles and the brain at high altitude, requiring the heart and lungs to compensate by working harder. There is no hard-and-fast rule as to what is too high: the symptoms have been fatal at 3000m, although 3500 to 4500m is the usual range.

The adaptation is a hard discipline for your body, which tries to compensate to the utmost the elements not compatible with life: less oxygen present in the air, distribution of atmospherical pressure, the cold, aridity, alkalosis and so on. Above 6500 meters (maximum acclimatization zone), people live only with their reserves. Therefore it is necessary to descend periodically when staying for extended periods above this altitude. You must come down to lower points where you can restore these reserves. Doing this several times you can get acclimatization and determine the time of maximum permanence in that height, so that there is no risk of deterioration, a serious sign of alarm.

Symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) usually develop during the first 24 hours at altitude but may be delayed up to three weeks. Mild symptoms include headache, lethargy, dizziness, difficulty sleeping and loss of appetite. AMS may become more severe without warning and can be fatal.

Mountain sickness is manifested through the following symptoms:

• Acute indisposition with headache, nausea, vomiting, weakness and general health decline.
• Brain edema, with severe headache, mental or visual disorder, unstable motion, nausea, coma, etc.
• Pulmonary edema, evidenced through dyspnea, cyanosis, vomiting, cough, unsteadiness, etc.

These signs overlap in such a way that they can be evident in combination. They are stages of the same process, and are caused by one single denominator: reduced oxygen in the air.

All high altitude symptoms may be prevented through proper acclimatization. A good knowledge of the signs and the effects of mountain sickness will enable the climber to prevent severe health disorders, or even death, which may overcome in a short time. A number of measures can be adopted to prevent acute mountain sickness:

• If you reach a high altitude by trekking, acclimatization takes place gradually and you are less likely to be affected than if you fly or take a ski lift directly to high altitude.
• Ascend slowly. You have to walk slowly, even if you feel fit enough to keep a higher pace.
• Have frequent rest days, spending two to three nights at each rise of 1000 meters.
• Take acclimatization hikes to a higher point, as a peak near by, then go down again.
• It is always wise to sleep at a lower altitude than the greatest height reached during the day. Walk high, sleep low!!! If you don't sleep well you can not recuperate well.
• Also, once above 3000 meters, care should be taken not to increase the sleeping altitude by more than 300 meters per day.

People affected by the sickness can recover fairly well by descending to lower altitudes as promptly as possible. But this is not the case with affected people who stay exposed longer at higher altitudes. The safest practice is to descend to lower altitudes when the first sign of sickness is detected.

Treat mild symptoms by resting at the same altitude until recovery, usually a day or two. Paracetamol or aspirin can be taken for headaches. If symptoms persist or become worse, however, immediate descent is necessary; even 500m can help. Drug treatments should never be used to avoid descent or to enable further ascent.

Some doctors for the prevention of AMS recommend the drugs acetazolamide (Diamox) and dexamethasone. However their use is controversial. These drugs can reduce the symptoms of AMS, but they may also mask warning signs; severe and fatal AMS have occurred in people taking these drugs.

On high altitudes you’ll need to boil your water longer, because it will boil at a lower temperature and won’t kill the germs. It is important to have easy access to your water bottle when you hike. On winter treks it’s hard because the bottle and water hose will freeze. Having a wide mouth water bottle with an insulation cover is practical, and essential

Eat a lot of carbohydrates! Your body uses more oxygen to burn fat and protein than it does to burn carbohydrates. Therefor they recommend you eat a lot of carbohydrates, especially for dinner during the evening. The supply of oxygen is going to be lower during the night. Of course you have to eat protein and fat too, otherwise you won’t get enough calories. Eat a lot of fat and protein on resting days when your body is able to extract the energy and nutrition

Read more about altitude.