Any new-to-you dog needs to be one of three places at all times:
1) linked to you by the "umbilical leash"
2) in her crate
3) gated into a free zone, kitchen or other room that is dog proofed, or an x-pen

For tips on breaking your dog of soiling in the house, see my house training page.

X-pens come in a variety of heights and color finishes.

Basic equipment for house training depends on how old or well trained your new puppy or dog is and how much of the time you will be gone. With any new dog, if you are going to be gone more than a few hours, you will need a dog sitter, baby gates and/or x-pen. For ALL new dogs, you will need a crate.

CRATES

Car and air travel crates
Crates for the car should be standard, molded plastic airline type crates. The bigger your dog is, the more expensive the crate will be. The smallest quality crates will run around $50 while the largest ones can be several hundred dollars. Most pet supply stores carry them. You can also often find these crates used in the classified ads in the newspaper. If you do get a used crate, clean it with a bleach solution and rinse well before allowing your dog to use it. Also be sure that the metal grill door is cleaned of any rust. Do not use the type of crate with a plastic framed door. Even very small dogs can break the plastic door frame and be gone in a flash.

I prefer the Deluxe Vari-Kennel brand crate because it is more durable. They come in a wide variety of colors and sizes.

Crates are indispensible for housetraining and keeping your dog safe when unattended.

- Small size crate (100), approximately 22 inches long, for toy dogs like Pomeranians, Toy Poodles, Yorkshire Terriers, Boston Terriers, small Jack Russell Terriers, most dogs under 15 pounds.
- Medium size crate (200), approximately 27 inches long for small dogs like Cocker Spaniels, Shelties, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, Norwich or Cairn Terriers, American Eskimo Dogs, and other breeds up to 25 pounds.
- Intermediate size crate (300), approximately 32 inches long, for medium dogs up to about 40 pounds or medium height skinny dogs like large Shelties, Brittanys, Nova Scotia Duck Tollers, Border Collies, Whippets.
- Large size crate (400), approximately 36 inches long, for large dogs, Golden Retrievers, Flat Coated Retrievers, standard Poodles, up to 60-70 pounds.
- Extra large sized crate (450 to 500), approximately 40 inches long, for taller and heavier dogs up to 100 pounds, Irish Setters, big Labrador Retrievers, big male Golden Retrievers, German Shepherds, standard Collies, tall Greyhounds, small females of the giant breeds like Great Pyrenees, Saint Bernard.
- Giant sized crates (500 to 600), 42 inches and longer, for dogs over 100 pounds, Saint Bernards, Great Danes, Newfoundlands, Great Pyrenees, Leonbergers.

Travel Sizing
For travel, fit the crate to the dog. It should be just big enough to be comfortable. Your can take the dog in to the pet supply store to try on several crates. The sales person can help you decide what is most appropriate. While you are trying crates for size, be sure the crate will fit into your car! A crate that is too large for the dog can be a hazard. The dog will rattle around inside if there is a collision. A too big crate can feel like a huge echoing cave - very frightening to a young or timid dog.

Home crates
For use in the home, depending on the confidence level of your dog, a roomier crate can be a good thing. If you find that the crate you have obtained is too large at the beginning, you can block off part of it or fill it up with durable cushions, or indestructible obstacles.

Crate Size
Because I sometimes foster dogs of larger breeds, for "guest" use in my home (not for the car) I buy the largest crate that any of my foster dogs might need. You should buy the largest crate that would reasonably be useable by your dog. That is likely to be approximately one or two crate sizes bigger than her car crate.

The size of the home crate may also be partly determined by the breed of your dog. For instance, some Cocker Spaniels seem to have a type of claustrophobia. The Cockers I have fostered do best in a large crate at home while they take car rides well in a medium (200) sized crate. It makes sense to the dog and that's what matters.

The rectangular, wire mesh crates (which are NOT acceptable for airplane travel) give you more useful floor space at home than a molded plastic model. The open mesh permits better air flow, the removable plastic bottom tray makes them easier to clean, and they disassemble for easy storage. The ones that come completely apart are lighter weight and cheaper but are a royal pain to assemble. If you get this kind you will want to set it up and leave it up permanently. The quickly foldable versions are heavier, more durable, cost up to several hundred dollars, and may be more escape proof.

The wire mesh crate that I use at home is called the Pet Home from Wal-Mart. The large size with the Golden Retriever pictured on the flat carton is approximately 42" long by 27" wide by 30" high and is only about $100 (CDN). I've used that size crate for overnights for dogs as big as a male standard rough Collie. Some of the very big Golden Retrievers stretch the seams on it but most have plenty of room to stretch out completely flat. Since I often foster dogs who are ill, recovering from surgery, or stressed, a bigger crate where they can flop full out is an advantage. The width of the floor of the crate should be at least a few inches wider than the height of your dog at her shoulder.

Choosing a leash
It is best to use a regular six- foot leash, either nylon or leather, for walking the dog. A shorter leash, 3 or 4 feet, makes it more likely that you will be pulling against each other, which is undesirable. Chain leashes are heavy and loud. Because you can't grab the chain leash anywhere but on the fabric or leather handles, they reduce your ability to handle the dog and are not any stronger than nylon or leather. A chain leash is only appropriate if the dog is grabbing at the leash and chewing it while you are walking or while he is dragging the leash during long line training. Never tie a dog out on a line whether it is nylon, cotton, or chain.

Flexi-leads (retractable leashes)
Please don't walk your dog with the Flexi-lead type leash (the retractable kind). It pulls on the collar and will condition the dog to pull. The more the dog pulls on the Flexi-lead, the more freedom it gets. The dog thinks she is making the decisions about how much extra room she has to roam and explore. Is it any wonder that dogs walked on these leashes think that pulling is magic? If the dog jerks the Flexi-lead out of your hand, the plastic casing will drag behind the dog clattering along the pavement. Many dogs have run away and become lost because of the person dropping the Flexi-lead and scaring the dog.

Collars
Many pet dogs are fine with a flat nylon, braided or rolled leather collar with a metal buckle. Plastic collar fastenings are breakable and insecure for strong dogs.

Another type of collar that is very effective is a fabric slip collar. This is similar to a "choke" training collar, but it has an adjustable minimum diameter. If the dog tries to pull out, the collar will tighten but only to the minimum length you have set it at. This is an ideal collar for a spooky dog that tries to shy away from approaching hazards. You can also put ID tags on such a collar and leave it on all the time because it will not tighten and choke the dog if it catches on something.

Metal collars of any type Ð choke, prong, martingale Ð are for training. Other than the few minutes per day when you are actively training, remove such a collar. For around the house and social visits, a flat nylon or leather buckle collar or fabric slip collar is ideal.

Do not use a training collar of any type without direct guidance from a trainer to fit and use it properly. Call a qualified trainer for assistance if you feel that you must use something other than a flat fabric or leather collar.

Remove Chain Collars
Do not leave a chain collar on the dog at any time during its life. A dog can catch the chain collar on something and strangle to death before you can get to her. If the dog is running fast and catches the chain collar on something, the jerk can actually break the dog's neck. If you are training with an instructor who uses such collars, only put the chain collar on the dog during the lesson and the five to ten minutes per day when you are actively training. The rest of the time, the dog should wear a flat leather or nylon buckle collar or fabric slip collar.

Body halters
A body halter is only for a dog that is so very tiny that any pressure on a regular collar would snap her little neck like a toothpick. Halters are great for seat belts in the car, or if you are training your dog to pull a sled or cart. With some puppies that are sensitive to pressure around their necks when they are being trained to lead, a harness might be used temporarily. Body halters are not for walking the dog or for obedience training. A body halter gives you zero control of the dog. An intelligent dog can get out of a body halter faster than Houdini could get out of a straight jacket. A flat leather or nylon buckle collar or adjustable fabric slip collar is recommended for walking and training.

Head halters - Gentle Leader or Halti
For big, strong dogs that pull really hard and are not paying attention, a head halter type of training device can be used temporarily. They look and work very much like the head halters used to lead horses. There are several brand names including the Gentle Leader and the Halti. This should be fitted and used with the instruction of a qualified trainer.

A dog should never ever be tied up with a head halter on! These are ONLY to be used for training. They are not safe to leave on the dog when it is unattended.

More to come!

Azarel Shetland Sheepdogs
Quesnel, British Columbia, Canada