Pee Breaks
Even if she is already housebroken when you bring her home, for the first few days after you get your dog, she will need to go out frequently to pee. If you notice her pacing or sniffing around indoors, she probably has to pee. Please clean up after her outdoors, even on private property, by picking up her poops in plastic bags and dispose in public waste cans.

Puppy pee schedule
Put your new dog on the puppy pee schedule: take her out to pee before and after eating, before and after sleeping, before and after playing, plus about every 30 to 60 minutes take her for a quickie out to pee, then back in.

No long walks (or extended play sessions) for any dog during the first few days in her new home. When you take her out, if the dog doesn't pee right away, bring her back inside, keep her on leash attached to you or in her crate, then take her out again in 30 minutes or so. Initially, always go out with her to witness that she has done her business and PRAISE her.

Leave the Collar ON
At least for the first four to six weeks, leave her nylon or leather collar with ID tags ON at all times. If she is actively playing indoors with another dog that grabs at the collar, you may remove the collar temporarily, then put it back ON after playing. The remote possibility that the collar could get caught on something and strangle her is statistically far less than her getting loose with no collar on and no identification. There is a substantial risk that your dog may see her opportunity and bolt when someone opens the door to house or car at just the wrong moment. If she is lost without her collar, there is zero chance that we will ever get her back. Be sure that her collar is ON at all times other than when she is actively playing.

Even if you have a yard, she will appreciate it if you go out with her so she can receive PRAISE for doing her business. Also you will know when she has gone so she can have freedom in the house. If she has not peed outside for more than 2 hours, she should be on leash in the house attached to someone who is watching her or in her crate until she finally pees/poops outside. This avoids mistakes rather than having to correct behaviors after she has started doing things you don't like.

Accidents
When you have had an accident, you need to put the dog back on the puppy pee schedule. Keep her either ON leash attached to you in the house (or in her crate if you arenÕt available) for the entire following day.

Leash - Crate - Free Zone
There are three okay places for your new dog to spend her first couple of weeks:
1) on the umbilical leash attached to you
2) in her crate
3) in her x-pen or free zone

For more on crates and x-pens, see my equipment page.

Umbilical leash - your indispensable training tool
Because the dog will need to pee a lot the first couple of days and because she feels abandoned by the people she just left, you need to reassure Ginger that she belongs to a new pack leader Š YOU. To do that, she needs to know that you are the one to whom she should refer for everything.

To establish the bond of leadership, start with a physical connection. For the first 48 hours, keep a six-foot long nylon webbing or leather leash attached to her collar at all times unless she is in her crate or confined in a free zone. It is best if you tie the leash to your belt and have her hang out with you. Don't pet her a lot. Don't fuss with her. Don't give her commands or make her sit or lie down. Just let her BE and let her physical attachment to you deliver the message that she belongs to you now.

Keep your dog company. Do not allow her to wander around your house alone, unattended. You may think more freedom would be a special treat for her. However, that type of freedom is EXTREMELY stressful to a dog that has just changed homes.

A crate is the best place for your new dog to sleep and relax until she is fully trained.

Free Zone
If you feel that a crate is simply too little space for your dog when you are not watching her directly, you can confine her inside a free zone. Depending on the size and activity level of your dog, you can create a free zone within a) an X-pen or b) a blocked off area of the house that is designated and secured by baby gates. The free zone contains their crate with either the door off or tied open, plus an area with newspapers, water, and toys.

Do NOT close the dog in a room with the solid door shut. Many dogs will tear that door right off its hinges to get out. Most dogs that will not tolerate a closed door will be fine enclosed in free zone room by baby gates. Alternatively, some who whimper, whine and bark if left in a free zone will be happiest in a crate.

If you use a free zone, it needs to be big enough for some open floor space plus a place for her crate with the door open. It is important that the dog has her crate in the free zone so that she can have her own safe place. A simple pad and blanket inside a small x-pen may suffice for very confident dogs after their first few days. However, with most dogs you are asking for increased separation anxiety symptoms, barking, howling, territorial urination, and destruction of your doors, woodwork, and possessions, if you donÕt provide a crate at first.

If you have a new puppy or have adopted a very young or un-housebroken dog who is also not crate trained, you will need to set up a "free zone". This is either a room that is closed off with a baby gate or an area that is defined with an x-pen. The flooring must be impervious to urine. It should be big enough to allow the dog's crate inside plus the water bowl and a play area. Cover the entire floor outside the crate with newspapers. Don't expect that if you put newspaper in one corner the dog will go there. Also do not use this pen as a substitute for taking the dog outside when you are home.

Don't leave a bowl of food down for the dog. Free feeding simply complicates the problems of house training because you never know when the dog needs to poop. Puppies and under nourished adult rescued dogs eat more often, but they do eat regularly, usually three or four meals per day.

An x-pen is an ideal way to create a portable, safe area for your dog.

It may be several days before your puppy or new dog learns to be content and occupy herself with her toys. As noted in the section on crate training, don't reward her for crying in the free zone by taking her out. When she is quiet, praise her, pet her or play with her.

Before you put her in the free zone take her outside to pee. When you are ready to let her out of the pen, if possible, pick her up and carry her directly outside. If she is too big to carry, attach her leash and lead her from the pen to her place outside to pee. Do not detour or she will learn to go other places in the house than the free zone.

Be sure to leave a bowl of fresh, filtered water in the free zone. Do not leave food for the dog in the crate or free zone. Meals are at designated times only.

Remember that the free zone should be completely dog proofed. Anything she does inside the free zone is okay. Scolding her for chewing your phone cord in half or destroying your collection of stuffed teddy bears is unfair if they were inside the free zone.

Long Line
After the first 48 hours, when you are no longer keeping the dog tied to you with the umbilical leash, you can continue the bonding process by keeping her on a long line. This is a 10 to 15-foot length of lightweight cotton line or nylon webbing attached to her collar. Let her drag that line around after herself. If you want her to come to you, simply step on the line as you happily call her to you, then calmly reel in the line. This prevents your creating a game of chasing her around the house or yard when you want her to come. DO NOT USE THE LONG LINE TO TIE THE DOG TO AN OBJECT. The long line is loose, for training purposes; it is not a "chain." Also do not attach the long line to a chain collar!

Digestive upsets
Newly placed puppies or adult dogs often have upset tummies from stress. They may vomit, have diarrhea, or they might be so nervous they are unable to poop. Combined with any other stressors such as hot weather, different doggie treats, meeting new people, new cats or dogs, or unaccustomed physical activity, the dog may appear to be quite ill.

To avoid digestive upsets, the first few days feed exactly the diet the dog has been getting prior to her arrival at your house. No special new cookies, treats, or table scraps, please. If you do change her diet, be ready for a digestive upset.

Note: the following remedies are not intended to be a substitute for proper Veterinary care.

Pepto Bismol
To head off development of further upset and dehydration, at the first sign of very soft stools or retching, give the dog one Pepto Bismol caplet (Golden Retriever or Sheltie dose). Some dogs will take the pill like a treat in a small blob of peanut butter, cheese or hamburger. Others will let you push the pill in over their tongues. For those who will not take the pill either way, crush the pill with a fork in the bottom of the dogÕs bowl. Add about 1/4 cup of boiling water. Mix. Then add a bit of boiled rice and a tiny amount of the dogÕs regular raw meat or kibble, only for flavor, and mix. Even the sickest dogs will usually eat a tablespoon of meat-flavored rice with a crushed pill in it.

Slippery Elm
If the dog is vomiting or having diarrhea, do not feed more regular meals. At the next regular mealtime try feeding a small amount of plain (cooled) boiled white rice with 1/2 to 1 teaspoon of Slippery Elm powder and a little hot water. If she wonÕt eat the rice, add one Tablespoon of plain raw ground turkey or raw hamburger for flavoring and a teaspoon of canned pumpkin (just pumpkin - not pie filling!). If the dog throws that up, call your rescue coordinator and/or the Vet. Slippery Elm powder is also good for coughing and sore, dry throats after the dog has an anesthetic. Get small packets of Slippery Elm powder at any human health food store.

Gulpers
When they go to their new homes, some dogs are so insecure that they gulp their food. They eat extremely fast without chewing; some are spectacular in their antics. Be aware that the dog may regurgitate if she eats ravenously. If you don't want your dog throwing up in the middle of your white broadloom rug, feed her in a crate or in a vinyl-floored area. After eating, wait at least 30 minutes before taking your little gulper out to the carpeted areas of your house.

Food and Toy Possessiveness
Many gulpers are confused over who owns the food, and whether there is enough. Until she understands clearly who the new leader is, she will feel very frightened about giving up her bowl or toy to anyone. If your dog demonstrates any possessiveness (reluctance to let go) of her food bowl, toys, blanket, or other items, or aggression toward people (growling, snapping) over the dog;s food or toys, contact a professional trainer.

Rescue Remedy
To help the dog deal with stress, an herbal preparation called Rescue Remedy from the Bach Flower Remedies can be obtained at most health food stores. Put a few drops of this in the dog's water bowl several times per day. You can also put a few drops in the dog's food. It's not toxic so donÕt worry about overdosing. However, using more than the recommended dose will not produce any greater effects. You can also put a few drops of Rescue Remedy into a small, clean spray bottle, then fill the bottle with purified water. You can spray the solution on food, in the water bowl, or into the dog's mouth. There are certified Bach Flower Remedies practitioners who can make a special preparation to assist your own dog in the transition to her new home.

Territorial Marking
If your dog has an "accident" in your house when she has just peed/pooped outdoors, he/she is probably doing territorial marking. This is due to uncertainty over its place in the pack order and the boundaries of the pack territory. This uncertainty can happen because you have given too much freedom to roam around unsupervised in too big an area, particularly in rooms where you can't monitor the dog. By keeping her alternately tied to you or crated, she will understand that you determine the territory and places. You should also restrict her area of movement in the house. If you are in a room with her, close the door so that she can't wander the house alone. This should ensure that she will not need to mark in the future. It will also promote bonding between you and the dog.

No punishment
Confinement while housetraining is NOT punishment Š it is to reassure the dog that all is right with the world. Behave neutrally toward her. Do NOT speak to her harshly or in a shaming way while she is tied to you, confined in the room with you, or crated.

Refusal to go outdoors
Do NOT scold or punish the dog for mistakes in the house. If you do that, she will learn not to go where you can see her or where you can find it. Continued punishments will teach her ultimately to NOT go on leash or when you are outside with her. That means she will hold it until she comes back into the house. Then she will run to a place in the house where she can hide her pee/poop from you.

PRAISE for pee/poop
When the dog goes where you want her to (outdoors), give her PRAISE and a treat. Some dogs will be spooked if you speak to them while they are starting to squat or lift their leg. Be quiet until she starts to straighten up, then carefully hold out a cookie to her nose while saying "good girl".

Pee Command
At first, don't try to command her to go, just praise as soon as she goes. When she has become confident that she should be going outdoors / on leash, as she is preparing to squat, quietly give your pee command, "Veet Veet" or "Pee Break" or something similar. As she straightens up, say "Good Veet Veet!", treat and pet her. Eventually, you will be able to give the command when she is sniffing around, and she will do her pee. Make a habit of praising and treating the dog after she has done her duty outdoors. That will keep her going quickly so she can get the treat sooner, rather than searching the world for the perfect blade of grass upon which to bestow her excrement.

Poop Command
Programming poops is more complex but can be done. Again, you will need to be aware of the dog's biological clock. You can't command her to go if she doesn't really need to. However, using the same technique, begin by praising as she is straightening up after the poop and reward with a cookie. Eventually put a command "Time to poop" or "Do your business" or other words as she is sniffing to select her spot. It can be tricky handling the cookie, leash, and praising, while getting your plastic bag from your pocket, and scooping the poop, without mushing it or stimulating the dog to jump. Swearing at the poopy footed dog in the middle of the maneuver is counter-productive.

Potty Spot
You can program the dog going in a particular spot in your backyard by taking her on leash to that very spot each time. Walk with her on leash around that spot, keeping her circulating in the area for several minutes. Give profuse praise for doing it there. If she wonÕt go in the spot you have chosen, and if you don't want her to pee/poop anywhere else in your yard, take her outside the yard, like out to the parking strip, to do her business. Then try back at your chosen spot again later. Eventually you will be able to let her out into the yard off leash for her pee/poops. If you notice that she has pooped in a different area of the yard, move the poop to the chosen potty spot and leave it there briefly so she can see it. Don't scold her. Then re-do the training by taking her out to the potty spot on leash for several days until she demonstrates that she has got the idea firmly in mind.

Indoor Clean-up
Nature's Miracle stain and odor remover is available from most pet supply stores. Orange TKO natural citrus cleaner can be purchased from health food stores. Put about 1 teaspoon of TKO plus one-half cup NatureÕs Miracle in a 1 litre spray bottle. You can use either one of these cleaners alone. Nature's Miracle is the better stain remover and is clear. The TKO will stain your rugs orange if you use too much in the solution. I like to add TKO to the mix because of the pleasant aroma.

First, remove the poop or blot the puddle with paper towels and put them in a plastic bag. Then soak the area with the stain/odor remover solution. Put paper towels on top of the area, then walk over them with shoes on. Repeat several times until you are not getting any more liquid. Leave the area to dry. Be very aware of the dog returning to that area to sniff or mark. If she demonstrates too much interest in that spot, repeat the stain odor treatment a day or so later.

Walk times
When your dog gets older and is really reliable on her housetraining, a reasonable pee/poop schedule would be to walk and play for about 1/2 hour on/off leash first thing in the morning, around 8 am. Then another 5-15 minute pee break at noon. At around 4 pm do another 15 to 30 minute walk and play. Then a quickie at 8-9 pm and a last thing pee around 11-midnight. These are only pee walks. You should also fit in an exercise walk or two with your young, active dog.

Refusal to Poop
If you are sure that she has gone more than 36 hours without pooping while she has been eating regularly, she must be encouraged to poop. This is very common in the first few days with adult dogs in new homes, particularly if they are now expected to go while on leash rather than loose in a yard. Any change in a dog's routine can cause her to stop pooping. If you have accompanied her outside with the leash attached to you for each potty break it's unlikely she has gone when you havenÕt noticed.

There are several things you need to check. Some dogs, especially spooky ones, like their potty breaks to be relatively private. If your dog is having this problem, take her out alone. Take her to a quiet spot. Don't talk to her; don't look at her; don't even move while she is preparing to poop. Wait until after you are sure she has finished and then give her quiet praise and a cookie if she will accept it.

Match Method
Often dogs will refuse to poop before they go into the ring at dog shows. Professional handlers sometimes give them a human baby glycerine rectal suppository. This acts as lubricant or irritant that the dog will try to expel.

Much the same effect can be produced with a paper match. Take the dog to the spot where you want her to poop. Insert the head of a paper match about one-quarter inch into the dog's anus, leaving the rest sticking out. Walk her around for several minutes. Usually this will produce immediate results. If the dog does not poop right away, remove the match and go back into the house. Confine the dog in her free zone, or crate. Wait 30 minutes to an hour, then go back out with the dog on leash and try the match method again.

You might also use a human baby laxative in the baby dosage. If you still are having no luck, call your breeder or the Vet.

Azarel Shetland Sheepdogs
Quesnel, British Columbia, Canada