How to Choose
Cycling Shorts
By Fred Matheny and
Ed Pavelka of www.RoadBikeRider.com
You should choose
road-cycling shorts based on the quality of
materials and construction. But also crucial is how
well they conform to your unique anatomy. Sometimes
a relatively inexpensive pair may work better for
you than a high-zoot model.
Shorts, like saddles,
are tough to recommend because of differences in
butts, crotches, seats and riding positions. Every
rider has to try on shorts, buy the model/size that
fits snugly but comfortably, then hope for the best
on the bike. It's hit or miss, and some luck is
involved. Just as with saddles, there is no
universal answer.
That said, here are
guidelines that'll point you toward better choices.
-
Price.
Generally, the more expensive the shorts, the
higher the quality. Avoid cheap shorts because
the material and construction may be
substandard. They may be sewn from only 4 or 6
pieces ("panels"), which won't give you the best
anatomical fit. The padded liner ("chamois") may
not be large enough, soft enough or sewn without
irritating seams. Cheap shorts aren't as
durable, either, so in the long run they really
aren't a bargain. When touring and washing
shorts by hand, wringing can break threads and
blow out seams if the manufacturer cut corners
on quality.
-
Panels.
The more the better. Usually, 8-panel shorts
conform to your body better than those made from
fewer pieces. Better manufacturers use flat-seam
stitching so additional panels won't result in
abrasion or other discomforts.
-
Liner.
Crotch liners are synthetic nowadays (not real
chamois leather). That's a good thing because
the material can't dry, crack and cause more
irritation than it prevents. A large, smooth,
absorbent, one-piece, moderately padded liner
has the best chance of feeling comfortable.
Liners that have seams, grooves, distinct
sections and/or a waffle-like texture may work
fine for you -- or maybe not. There's no way of
knowing for sure before riding. Beware of thick
padding, which can bunch and chafe. Also
problematic are gel inserts. Because they're in
plastic compartments, moisture transfer can be
blocked, causing excessive dampness and skin
irritation.
-
Leg length.
This goes up and down like hem lengths in the
fashion world. Long, so-called "Belgian" shorts
will be in style for a while, putting the legs
just above the knee. Then the pendulum swings
the other way. Short shorts, like those marketed
for spinning classes, are favored by riders who
want to avoid tan lines that show when wearing
casual shorts. But they shouldn't be so short
that the nose of the saddle rubs on bare skin.
-
Waist length.
Proper cycling shorts are cut high in back to
keep skin covered in the bent-over riding
position. Likewise, they are low in front so you
can bend forward without restriction. The front
shouldn't be so low, though, that it's below
your hip bones with nothing to help hold it up.
-
Waist band. The elastic should be wide enough that it
doesn't feel like a cord around your middle.
Some manufacturers add a drawstring. Just
elastic is fine. Just a drawstring is not. If
that's the only thing keeping shorts in place,
you'll feel restricted in certain positions or
when breathing deeply.
-
Leg grippers. Nothing is more frustrating than shorts that
ride up and let material bunch in the crotch.
Check the leg grippers to be sure they're wide,
made of "sticky" rubber-like material and
securely sewn in. The legs should feel
comfortably snug, not tight.
-
Stretch. Most shorts are made of a stretchy fabric
generically called spandex. They're easy to pull
on and don't feel like you're wearing a 19th
century corset. On the other hand, you may come
across shorts with fabric that purposely resists
stretching. The idea is to provide help to your
pedal stroke. The fabric "stores" kinetic energy
on the rear part of the stroke and releases it
when you push down. This concept is also used in
competition suits for weight lifters. I'm not
aware of any studies that prove a benefit for
cyclists.
-
Bibs.
Shorts with built-in shoulder straps can't sag.
They keep the chamois snug against the crotch to
limit movement and irritation. For men, this
prevents the chance of things moving out of
place when pedaling out of the saddle. However,
the high front makes it difficult for guys to
urinate. (Some prefer to roll up one leg instead
of contorting to pull down the front.) Women
usually prefer shorts without bibs so they don't
have to remove their jersey to take what cycling
commentator Phil Liggett calls a "natural
break." Bib shorts are more expensive than
standard shorts.
-
Size.
It's best to try on shorts before buying them.
Sizing varies among manufacturers. Fred is
5-foot-10 and just under 160 pounds, but wears
size XL in some shorts while M is too big in
others. Some U.S. manufacturers have noticed the
"plumping of America" and cut their clothing
bigger. It's risky to buy shorts by mailorder
unless you're replacing a model and size you've
worn before.
-
Overall fit. In general, snugger is better. You don't
want any uncomfortable restriction, but you do
want the shorts to stay exactly in place.
Remember that properly designed cycling shorts
will look a bit baggy in the butt when you're
standing in front of the dressing room mirror.
Then crouch forward into the riding position and
watch them mold to your body.
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