tutorial pg 3
pic 7 at this time, what i have done is a drybrush the whole reciever, muzzle, and energy cap in gold. heavier than the first "detail drybrush, but only a little. the gold reads very brightly on camera at this point. i have also drybrushed in the remaining areas of the trigger assembly, again proportionately heavier, so it appears that the area is more worn, showing more metallic finish. you will notice that the trigger group looks way too bright, we will address that shortly.
Pic 8
following the gold drybrush, i did another, lighter drybrush in "white gold" ( an equal mix of gold and silver) basically "frosting" the whole gun. (minus grip).
i followed this with some selective black washes, to tone down the larger bright spots. except for the trigger assembly, which was quite shiny, and really needed tonign down, i wiped the wash off about 3 seconds after applying. i used my fingers to wipe it off, and with practice , it is easy to wipe "some of it" off without taking the blakc out of the deeper pits.
it should also be noted at this point that rather than sand, putty, etc to "clean up" the finish of the piece, i chose to let it stand as-is, the resin cought a lot of small air bubbles, and with the drybrushing, it takes on the appearance of old, pitted,metal very easily.
Pic 9
at this point ,i have my colors laid out
bronze, frosted with gold, frosted with white gold for the muzzle and energy cap.
black, frosted with gold, frosted with white gold for the body.
bronze/gold frosted gold, frosted white gold, for the frame (between the trigger and main body) and also for the trigger itself.
white gold, frosted with silver for the "trigger housing" directly behind the trigger.
with these colors laid out, it becomes a process of drybrush, wash, repeat. with practice you will typically only have to drybrush and wash about 2 times to get it perfectly "aged"
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