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Faqs

PROLITE
CARBINE

What barrel shoud I get?

Go to www.paintcheck.com/articles/range.html They have the most indepth study on barrels and the physics involved in paintball. To summarize the article. Most of the hype around paintball barrels is essentialy hype, and has very little or no effect on the accuacy of the barrel. Some of the questions it answers are. Does imparting a spin on a paintball increase accuracy? NO. Does a longer barrel mean more accurate shots? NO. Does spiral porting effect a shot? NO. and lots of other stuff. Definatly worth a read

Which should I get, Carbine or Prolite or ProCarbine?

I have not heard anything bad about either one. All are reliable guns. The prolite is the orginial in the series, It is out of production, but tippman still carries and supports it. The carbine is the second in the series. It features a 45. style grip, a new designed CVX valve and a d-feed, THe stock carbine is a little shorter due to the shorter stock barrel, But after an aftermarket barrel both are essentialy the same size. The ProCarbine is essentialy the best of both worlds, It is the newest in the line. IT has the .45 grip but the prolite foregrip. All parts are interchangeable on all three styles.

What is Low Pressure? and Can i make my marker LP

NO as of right now the Prolie/carbine/procarbine can not be converted

Low pressure is the newest craze in paintball. In theory it is a good idea. Essentially in an standard CO2 powered paintball gun (anykind) about 600-800 psi hit the paint ball and propell it forward. This high pressure can sometimes cause the paint to break in the barrel, if its to soft, and if to hard of paint is used then it doesn't break on the target. In Low Pressure a special regulater, LP chamber and valve are used. Instead of 600-800 psi only like 300 psi hits the paintball allowing softer paint to be used. But for typical rec ball play it is not neccesary.

How do I clean my gun?

Tools needed
  1. First lay the gun down with the cocking knob side up and the barrel to your left.
  2. Use the large hex wrench and remove the barrel pinch bolt. Unscrew the barrel and remove the fron grip.
  3. Run some hot water through the barrel to remove any paint in side. Then use your squeege to remove the water.
  4. Wipe down the front grip and loader to remove any paint
  5. Use the large hex wrench and remove the rear sight
  6. Turn the gun upside down and remove linkage arm (you might need to shake it)and wipe it down
  7. Slide the front bolt out and wipe it down
  8. Slowly unscrew the end cap at the rear of the upper reciever. Becareful the main spring will try to push it out.
  9. Take out the mainspring. Wipe it down and the pin that was inside it.
  10. Pull cocking knob as far back as possible. Lift it out.
  11. Slide the rear bolt out and wipe it down.
  12. Place a rag over the dowel and try to wipe down and remove any dirt from inside where the front and rear bolts were.

What upgrades should I get?

First play a few game with what you have. But some things to think about Only change one Item at a time. Like a science experiment. If you change every thing at one time you won't know what you like. You borrow a friend remote. If you don't have a problem with pinching paint then don't get a Vl 2000. For more information see Upgrades

I have heard that high heat and high humidity will cause the prolite/carbine to stop functioning properly?


That statement is 99% false. There is always the 1% chance that something can go wrong. I personaly have never had any problems nor have I heard a specific case of a malfunction, just rumors. I live in Southern Maryland where it gets from 20 degrees in the winter and 100+ in the summer and very high humidity. I have never had any problems either way nor has the field at which I play. They use the prolite for rental guns. I don't think there is anything to worry about.
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