Hi friends,

   We are there. Dharmsala. We arrived at 6 in the morning, totally wasted, but cheerful. We shared the cab with 2 monks, Tischa sitting in-between them in the back. The Dalai Lama is here and gives speeches. Will we see him?...

   The flight was long, and I didn't get a chance to sleep. Tischa was awake watching movies all the time. India smells great. This is where I love to be. We get a cab to the train , New Delhi Train station, and just miss the connection. We decide to take a hotel and have some sleep. Tischa is a bit worried. It smells so bad! She wants to leave as soon as possible. Me too. We have a little scrawl at the bazaar, and move to the station. Bye bye Delhi. Hello McLeod Ganj!

   The train takes about 12 hours, and we sit with 3 vetenarians who attained a course in artificial insemination with frozen sperm. Great! They were so much in laughter, like 3 school boys, and they enjoyed my sexually colored jokes. They even had some for me! I came to know to know more about the Veda's than them! We had a great time together and they waved us off at arriving in Pathankot, 4.00 AM.

   We got a minivan to McLeod Ganj together with a monk from Mongolia and a nun from Taiwan. Tischa sitting in the middle with them in the back was wonderful. It is so nice to be back. The road was bumpy, but Tischa held her stomach, unlike the nun. We arrived at 6 in the morning and found our way to a hotel, waking the guys on the floor. The room is nice, and we go out for some breakfast. We pass a school, and it is wonderful to see all these kids in uniform sitting outside studying. The mountains are impressive, and Tischa is happy. Donkeys, monkeys and fresh air. We scrawl the streets of McLeod Ganj for points of recognition, but things changed a lot. We get invited by a monk into his room and sit with him. I love to see Tischa here, she is doing so well. Tomorrow I'll go and see if we can meet the Dalai Lama. For now, goodnight, love and the sense of Buddhist incense from India!

   I got sick. I think it was the carpet and some food. Stayed in bed all day yesterday, and just got out to get another hotel. Had my pulse checked by an ayurvedic doctor (if he was one at all...) and got some herbal pills. They always taste the same...

   It's raining cats and dogs. The story is they did puja here for rain. Well... They got it. It's pouring two days full now. The lighting took down the electricity last night with a bang. I am going to see how far I can get Tischa to follow me in the rain... We might fly to Katmandu. It's a bit too wet here...

   Yesterday was a fine day. Less rain, and a bit of sun. Although I felt moody and emotional, we had nice meetings. Yeshe is a Australian monk. She lives in a nunnery down the road. We had a long conversation about Buddhism and the way she deals with her emotions, the connection with her teachers, the people in India, and her spiritual perceptions. I tried to get in deep with her on the subject, and want to have an interview with her. We'll meet again. She helped us to get organized to see the Dalai Lama. We had to have passport photo's made, and today we got our pass. Tischa is hobbling behind me a bit. She wants to go horse riding, but the slippery slopes won't allow mountain riding at this moment. (And who wants to sit on the back of a horse in the rain? Duh?) Got to tell her over and over again. This rain is getting to us.

   We bought a heater for in the room, because it is freezing. I am glad I took the sleeping bag. It's really warm under there. I am no more sick, and am quit sure it was the damn carpet. Well.... That is living with allergies. The food is delicious, but Tischa stays with her fried egg, pancakes and toast. It's all 'spicy'; too much for her, for me it's tourist food.

   Today the sun is shining. Yippee! I get Tischa out of coma, dress her and we get out, just to see there is already a cue in front of the pass office. We get in line, and we are done within the hour. Today we go and book the train back to Delhi, and then to Katmandu. Then we go to see where they make Thanka's. Going to write about that on my web site, and make a lot of pictures of coarse... Talk to you soon. All is well here.

   Yesterday the Dalai Lama spoke. The square was stuffed, but it was great to see him again. Afterwards we had an appointment with Sister Yeshe, for an interview. We spoke for 4 hours, comparing my experience in life, communes, meditation and love to hers as a nun. We had a walk through the forest and had some food. Tischa running around found the local Indian toilet, slipped and landed right in the middle of a yellowish dump. You should have seen her cleaning her as, pulling it over the grass like a dog cleaning it's ass. We went to the Thanka shop and she told a bit about the meaning of them and what she new about the quality. My eye has fallen on one piece with a serious price tag. She whispers to go to another shop since this one is too expensive. We leave, but the other one is out of quality stock. I made up my mind. Yeshe goes back to her Nunnery, and I realize how much I appreciate her. I loved the time we spend together. I am going to publish the interview soon, and will let you know. Tischa loved her too and we were cheerful.

   Today is a busy day. I left Tischa in bed and went for the discourse of the dalai Lama. Today I took my camera, hoping the equipment would convince them I was press, but alas. I didn't mind that much, having seen him already, and remembering my wooden ass from the day before. I feel I met him already, and no need to keep up the pressure. Today is our last day here, and I have some things to do. I am going to buy the Thanka. Tischa wants horseback riding and we need to pack and prepare for a long trip. Two days before we reach the Nepali border. I wish I new a faster way, but alas. We take sleeper trains so we will be unconscious most of the trip. Tomorrow we will be in Delhi, to get on the next train just 4 hours later.

   I decide to buy 4 Thanka's. Not just some Thanka. The most beautiful ones in the shop. I spent Rs 75.000, which is Eur. 1300,00. Ok, It's the biggest amount of money I ever spent on a painting, but they are stunning. Please feel free to come and see for yourself when I am back home. I am not kidding. I love them. I bought some presents, and am packed like a mule. Tischa has a new friend, a woman from Belgium, who is at the shop too. She is very kind. Then we go for the promised horse ride. Tischa loves it and is totally absorbed in her own space. I am just hobbling behind, thinking about some rest on a terrace. Well...

   I got some cash from the machine as I did yesterday. This morning I had checked the rates, by getting into my account. It is way better than Thomas Cook, which charges 3% on top of a lousy rate. I cash another Rs 45.000 and head for the Thanka shop. We pack everything and I leave with a PVC tube on my back. Wow. I don't feel sorry. I want them. Tischa is where I left her, behind a computer playing games. Still a few hours before we leave...

   We arrived in Katmandu! What a trip. At March 4th we left with a taxi at 20.30 towards Pathankot, where the train was waiting for us. Since our friends at the travel agency fucked up dearly, we had a 2nd class sleeper with a drunkard on our bed. Took some persuasion to get him to understand he had to find some other corner to sleep . I slept next to the window, and it was impossible to fall asleep. The wind was running through my clothes, and the noise of passing trains was a shock every time. I climbed in the narrow space next to Tischa. We had no sheets this time, so our coats were our cover. I slept with one eye open, and in the morning I was a wreck... Tischa did OK. We arrived in Delhi, and one of the guys we met on the train helped us around. We decided to get the room at the same hotel as we did on arrival. On a bicycle rickshaw we went into the narrow streets of Delhi. We threw our stuff in and left for town. I wanted to buy the microphone that fits on the Ipod. Thinking I would be having more interviews coming... We found it at CP, a rich Indian area, where you pay Rs202 for a milkshake at a place that looks like a bar in the states. The shake was good...

   Back in the hotel we had a nap, and left in time for the train. At the station, looking for the right platform, we were told we were at the wrong station. Great! It said in Hindi 'Old Delhi Station', and we were at the station we arrived at, 'New Delhi Station'. We had 20 minutes before our train left! With directions given to us by a stations chef, hoping the guy was using his right brain while writing the directions on a paper, we headed for the subway, on the other side of the train station. Up the stairs, half a mile across, and down again, down the subway, buying ticket, looking for the right platform, getting in.... pffff. Tischa was emotional. We were running with our packs on our backs. Out of the subway, damn tickets didn't work properly, jumping over the gate, a guard rushed to stop us, giving him my coin, running up the stairs, out to the station, looking for the right platform.... and just 1 minute before it took of we were in! Wow! I was seriously getting worried we had to stay another few days, since the train needs booking in advance... Well, we made it. We had two beds on top and got in. Food was served, and we slept under nice clean sheets.

   We woke up, thinking we would arrive at 9, but alas, it was 11.30 when we arrived in Bhaktapur. Out in the heat, we arranged to go together with a Nepali family. Sharing a Jeep with 14 people is not much fun, specially if it takes 3 hours to the border of Nepal. There we decide to take a private jeep together to Katmandu. All well. Getting our departure stamp at the Indian office, then go to the Nepali office, where we find out we need passport photo's. Going to the local Nepali Xerox shop (without the visa) and back with a copy of our passport, we wait and wait to see the guys there scratching their heads, each others heads, and again their own. It takes forever. Damn, what an idiots, but I can't say anything. Just be calm Shanti! Finally I get our visa, and shout it out! Let's go! The Nepali family has been waiting, together with an American who was also in the stuffed jeep. We get our own Jeep, with enough space to stretch our legs. Wonderful. We get on the road.

   After some time we get at a road block. Soldiers are stopping everybody. We have to get into convoy, since the area seems unsafe. When the escort finally arrive and we move on, we see why. 2 Burnt out buses on the road. Hindu separative try to make something clear.. We move on and arrive in Katmandu at 11.45, and at a hotel in Thamel at 12.15. Hello Nepal, we are here!

   First day in the mountains of Nepal is beautiful. We get out at 8 to go look for Ronnie and Stacey. Still sleepy we get our breakfast at the garden of the Katmandu Guest House. I try to call Ronnie on his cellular, but the connection is down. Only after trying a few times I get him on the phone. Tikka, tikka, acha, good, good. We will see each other at the Khamari house, next to the old market and Freak Street. Adam, the American we met on the bus didn't show up again, so we leave with the two of us from the guest house. A bicycle Rickshaw takes us to the market. The traffic is horrendous, and we are stuck at a little square for about ten minutes. The old market is like I remember from 16 years ago. All fake ancient jeweler, masks, Gurka knives and precious stones are laying around. I get the knack of respectfully get the sales guys of our back, by making a one hand namaste, and roam around with Tischa. It doesn't take long before we see Stacey and then Ronnie, with a beard. They have some friends with them, from Nepal and Thailand. It's a nice meeting, as if no time has passed since we met in Egypt. We stroll around, and decide to go to our hotel to get our luggage, and set of to Bhaktapur, a small town close to Katmandu. It's a museum town, and as we arrive in the dark, the power down, we walk through the ancient buildings and statues in complete darkness. Our small torch lights are useful, and we count the enormous amount off stars. The hotel is good and cheap. This is where the marriage party will be happening. We go for food, and Tischa is getting pizza again. Nepal isn't that much vegetarian, and I have a hard time finding a vegetarian meal. We are tired and leave for bed. We will meet again tomorrow morning.

   Today we go for a Nepali school. Bam, the Thai man is a professional clown in Thailand, and Ronnie Flower clown are giving a show. We go along, and I am going to record the whole thing with my camera. They are dressed up as we walk through the town to the school. It's fantastic to see the two of them in this ancient town, which didn't ever see a clown before. The kids are cheering, and everything is prepared on a little stage in the school yard. They give a great show. We love to see the kids so happy. We leave and the two clowns give a show all the way back home. A bunch of kids is running along, and I am shooting picture after picture. These rocks and stones have never seen two jokers like these before, and the contrast of the two is making excellent photo material. I am thinking to have some postcard printed before we go back. In the evening we go to bed early to be ready for the great day; Ronnie and Stacey getting married Nepali style.

   We get to Ronnie and Stacey's apartment early. The wedding is scheduled for 7.15. When we arrive, everybody is late. The girl who is dressing and doing the traditional make-up is not there yet, the priest is late, so we decide to go for breakfast. Ronnie and Stacey are not allowed to eat before their wedding, so we go off with Bam. We get to the same restaurant we were yesterday, and have to wait each other turn to get food. For some strange reason this restaurant has only one pan, so by the time the first is finished eating, the next gets their food. Well.. we are getting late for the wedding now. The bride and broom have all ready left the building, and Tischa didn't get her water buffalo-hamburger yet. So we wait, and hurry for the jeep to get us up the hill to the temple. The jeep is 20 minutes late, so while we are waiting I am watching a Nepali queer, a guy of approximately 45 years old with lipstick smeared around his mouth. Too embarrassing to make even a picture of. When we get in the temple I see Stacey sitting in a cage with all women around her. She is dressed in the finest silk sari from Varanasi, and looks like an Arabian queen. Extreme makeover Nepali style. Ronnie is in suit walking around while the priest starts his ritual. I get to film most of it. Then the ceremony starts, and they look absolutely stunning together. Local press is also there making pictures. Stacy is supposed to cry, like every Nepali girl, and we discussed weather she should put some Unions in her hanky, the other day. I can't see if she did, but the priest seems to accept the lack of tears. At the end we all get a smear of red sauce with rice on our forehead, and the wedding is over. It's time for food. All the time I have been walking around with two Nikon D70's as being the official photographer of the event. Shooting over 600 pictures with family and friends, I am quit happy we can leave. Another wedding is going to take place, and they can't kill the goat until we are gone. We take off, and waiting for the car to come and get us I almost fall asleep. It has been an impressive day. Tischa has been looking great in the outfit we bought for her the other day, completely Nepali. Finally she starts playing with the local kids, after I expressed my concern her becoming a nerd with her game computer and obsession for dogs, ants and other furry animals. She is running around and is happy. We get to the house and I leave for town. Tischa stays to play with the family kids. I walk into the Thanka school and find the origin of the paintings. What a surprise. The shop keeper in Dharmsala told me he got the Thanka's from Sikkim, and here I am, at the place where they make them. Again I order 4 Thanka's, and have about 16 Thanka's now. 2 Master pieces, and some other good ones. Wow. I am getting in an obsession. We eat out after a drink at the most expensive dinner place in one of the old buildings in the middle of Durban Square. We pay 50 Nrupees for a chai, where we normally have to pay only Nrupee 5. I tell Ronnie this is not expensive, this is insane. We head off to the restaurant and eat with the whole Nepali family. It's nice, and we're tired when we leave. Everybody decide to pass by my house to see the Thanka's. Then the quietness returns. Tischa and me fall asleep. We had a great day.

   Today I call Ronnie if they are awake yet, and pass by to get the CD with the pictures for the family and everybody else. I am going to make some copies. I leave with Pradeep and his friend. The paper factory I was planning to visit is closed, so I drop the CD at a copy shop and head off into town. Strolling along I am making pictures. Then I am in front of a Thanka shop, and am being recognized by a Nepali guy from the Thanka school. This is the place where they make more Thanka's, and where their teacher lives. I get to get an interview with him. Wonderful. He is a small guy, a son of a lama. He shows me Thanka's of 600 or more years old, and tells me a lot about the art of Thanka painting, and the meditation behind it. After the interview he invites me in his meditation space where 5 Buddha's are sitting behind glass. A mattress on the floor and a bench under the windows. I sit down in lotus and meditate. The atmosphere is impressive, and I allow to absorb the energy and presence, while inner questions are being answered. I can sell the Thanka's, but I should try to keep modest and fair with the profit. I feel connected and at home, and greet the master walking backwards. Thank you. Now I got the story almost complete. From manufacturer, history, master, and then customer. I have a story to tell. I get back to the Hotel where Tischa is still in bed. She needed the rest, and wants to stay a little more. Ronnie and Stacey are coming at two, so I hop out again. Tonight is the party, and preparations are being made.

   It's raining today. It started yesterday visiting Katmandu, and it looks like it's going to be here another few days. So I have some time left to write you.

   The party of Ronnie and Stacey was great. Stacey got all dressed up in an orange sari and looked more beautifully then ever. Ronnie was in his suit with a Nepali cap on his head. They were sitting on two chairs in front while all the family and friends were sitting opposite. Everybody came along congratulating them and giving presents. Lots of flowers around, and Ronnie pulling faces... I was shooting pictures from all the guests. The Food was prepared, and not soon after the DJ arrived. Everybody slowly slowly started to dance, getting more and more drunk. I arranged a meeting between a shy Nepali boy and some English young female teachers. The guys from the Thanka school were also present. The music was a mix of western, Thai, Nepali and Bollywood music, and the DJ was a bit awkward in the mix, but the atmosphere was great. At 10 the neighbors decided it was enough and started shouting. I looked like a small riot was taking place, and threats were being made. And while the music was shut down, the neighbor women kept screaming for hours. Unbelievable. I just left for bed. Enough is enough.

   The next day I woke up by the screaming of the neighbor women again. It was 6 o'clock, and I decided to go out and if necessary empty a bucket of water on these screaming chickens. I was quit fed up with them. But as I walked the balcony towards the gate, where the screaming was coming from, the noise withered away. Obviously they were done. Good. I could go back to bed. I couldn't catch my sleep anymore, so I wondered around a bit in town, came back, sat in the garden, ordered a Nepali Masala Tea for me, Ronnie and Stacey and enjoyed the morning. Ronnie got out of his room and we had tea together. Tischa is still sleeping. We decided to go out for a walk. Ronnie bought the Nikon D70 also, so there we were walking with the big camera's around our neck, looking for nice shots. Nepal, en Specially Bhaktapur is beautiful and old. Enough photographic opportunities for us. Ronnie has been here 9 times before and told some of the history of Bhaktapur. We passed the river and came to the local garbage belt. A huge place with hairy pigs eating the stinking garbage while a few kids are looking for plastics in the rubbish. We made some amazing shots. When we come back to the hotel, Stacey and Ronnie will come along to the Thanka shop, but need to clean up some things first, so I leave for the paper factory, 5 minutes by bike from the hotel. Pradeep brings me, and I explain the director I am to make a story about handmade paper, like I did in India. I walk through the factory 3 times, different lenses, and a video. Also this I will post on Youtube. I get back to the hotel and we go to the Thanka shop. And while I left one of the better ones for them to buy, they fall in love with a huge Thanka, costing 4 times what I paid. Well... Now I can buy the other one.. We go upstairs in the big room where the brother of the Lama is explaining the meaning of all the images on the Thanka. I make a video of this event, and will post it on Youtube too... Great footage!. Tischa is playing her computer game, and I am thinking what to tell the director of her school. She loves Nepali pigeons, dogs and Sims? At the home of Pradeep, Bam makes Thai food. I forgot they eat the complete chicken, and am hesitant to eat. It's all a bit too much for me. Tischa gets fried egg, and I wish I had asked for that too. It's late and we head back to our hotel.

   Today we go to Katmandu. We decided to go early, and I am there at 7.50, 10 minutes before appointed time. Now Bam is still not there, and Ronnie and me go out to look for him. Amazingly, we find this clown on the street close to his hotel. We didn't have to get him out of bed or from behind a meal. Back in the apartment we decide to have breakfast first, and while I thought to leave before traffic jam, we end up leaving at 9.30, get into this mess on the road, and arrive at about 11 at Bodhnath. It's cloudy, and a lot of people are around. Inside there is the big Stupa, one of two huge ones around Katmandu. I stroll around, going in and walk clockwise while inhaling the smoke of sage that is burned in pots around the Stupa. It's soothing and calming. The energy is intense. I realize I am standing inside a 3D Mandala now. It's amazing. I love it. We get down, and look for the others. Bam is running around in shops, Ronnie goes looking for him, Stacey, Tischa and me are waiting and waiting, and decide to take a drink in a local chai shop. I sit outside, so they can see us while walking around, but after 20 minutes, Stacey decides to go and look for them. Pfff. We get together and leave for Swayambhunath, the other Stupa. I ask a monk if he knows about Dilgo Kyentse Rinpochee, and he tells he is reincarnated and living behind the Monkey temple. I am thinking there is a third big Stupa around, since I don't recognize this Stupa at all. Later I realize everything has changed so much, and I was actually at the Stupa where the monastery of Dilgo Kyentse Rinpochee is... The whole area around is urbanized, as 16 years ago, the Stupa was outside of Katmandu.. We get to Swayambhunath. Monkeys and a huge stair up. I try to dare Pradeep to get up first, but he doesn't take the challenge. I start running, but the uneven steps are killing. Tischa is puffing. It's a tough one. But we make it. I am up first of coarse.. Another Stupa is looking at us, and we walk around. A Sadhu wants pictures made for some Baksheesh, and while we know he is the local clown, Ronnie makes him a balloon snake. The man, being ridiculed, is not aware of this, and proudly walks around with the balloon snake around his neck. What a laugh. In a small temple on the square there is a huge golden Buddha in glass, and we stand greeting it. It starts to rain, and we head back down. Slippery as it is, we get down at one piece, and head back for Katmandu. It's pouring now. I get into a travel agency, get a river rafting trip together with an elephant ride for $128 for two days.. 5 Video tapes are being processed for DVD, ATM spits out more cash, and another Thanka shop is visited. We get out for a taxi and find one with a working meter. Okay, a bit stuffed with the five of us in a Maruti 800, we get off. After some time Stacey notices the meter spinning, and Ronnie calculates it will be NRs 2000 when we arrive in Bhaktapur, while normally we would pay NRs 400- 500. Something stinks here, and we decide to get out. The driver is making argument, but I throw him NRs 50 on the front seat, telling him he is a thief, and slam the door. We get off in the dark, outside Katmandu, looking for another ride. He seems to follow us, and while I am not afraid to start throwing him and some friends around, I think it's better to get support from the local police, who is standing at a crossroad. We explain the situation and he helps us to get a new cab. Dhanyabad (Nepali for Thank You). Another adventure is over and we arrive at Bhaktapur in the night.

   Another day of rain. The trip I booked for tomorrow is not going to work out. River rafting in the rain is a bit too much for Tischa. I try to call the travel agency and after some time get them on the phone. No problem, we changed the date to two days later. I pass the Thanka school again, and decide to have a few Thanka's sent over to see how this works, in case someone wants to buy one and I need to order. Besides that, the ones I have I don't feel like giving away... The appointment for meeting the Lama who is going to bless our Thanka's is changed to tomorrow morning. I buy 4 more Thanka's, which makes it 20 Thanka's by now! I am a bit disturbed... I need help to stop me! I like the guy at the school. They are in fact three brothers and are devoted Nyingmapa (a Buddhist sect). Today we are going to Katmandu to have one night at the disco, before we bring Bam to the airport. He is going back to Thailand. Tischa and me arrive at Ronnie's and Stacey's, and we head for a taxi. In Katmandu we get a hotel, and Tischa and me walk around the Thamel area, looking for things to buy, presents. It's a tourist neighborhood and very pricy. Sometimes insane, but then trying to make a good deal.. I find another Thanka shop, and the man shows me Thanka's of 3 Lakh, which is NRs 300.000 or EUR 3.300.00. Yeah. Really. They are flawless, and I can see the quality, but the man is a salesman pleaser and has nothing of the atmosphere of the Lama family in Bhaktapur. Though the art is impressive. Tischa and me get lost in the little streets in the night. Electricity has fallen out, so just by the light of some shops with generators, some candles and our torches we roam around trying to find our way back to the hotel. When we get there the others haven't arrived yet, so we crash on the bed. I took an allergy pill, since the carpet is irritating my nose already. Ronnie knocks the door and we go to Pradeeps room to have a party there. While Tischa and me were off, they have been looking for a disco, but found none but sleazy clubs with fat ugly Nepali women trying to dance around a pole, having their tits hanging out. The whole picture made me in total support of having our own goodbye party at the hotel. Bam made a show pretending one of the girl in the club dancing and pouring candle wax on his arm... What a laugh. We get to bed. We are finished. The night is cold, and so am I. I can't get to sleep and even get up at three thinking Bam and Pradeep are in the garden talking loud and drunk. I am on the third floor and say goodbye to Bam. Next day they say it wasn't them. Delirious? We have to wake up early and I am fucked.

   Ronnie went with Bam to the airport, and Stacey is waking up. I get to a little restaurant with Tischa to get something in our stomach before we head for Bodhgaya, the Stupa where we are going to meet the Lama family before we head for the big Nyingmapa Lama. Tsss.. Everything goes so slow, and even with my sign language we end up with three omelets with 5 sandwiches (they are out of bread) and I buy the glasses to take with us. In the hotel I run up to get Stacey, and we get into a cab. We are in time and meet the Lama family. Another taxi brings us to a remote place and in the top apartment we meet beard lama. They don't know his real name but since he has this long beard, that's the name he has. We greet him and I give him the white scarf, folded seven times, which he returns and hangs around my neck. We all sit on the ground behind a low table. I ask if I can make pictures, and it's no problem. The Thanka's are being displayed on the floor and the Lama starts reciting. It takes a few hours, and we get blessings with the Dorje, the scriptures and even some Fanta! Food is thrown in the air and out of the window. I understand its for all the sentient beings, lost in transition.... I am making fun of the whole thing here, but it was impressive. I have to walk around the Thanka's with the elder of the Lama family and clean the faces on the Thanka with the white scarf like the one I gave to him. Some more fanta is poured in my hands. The Lama starts to tell loud that the Thanka's will be talking to me and that I need to give offerings every day. It has been a strange and good experience. The Lama is a nice old guy, still vital. The energy has changed a few times. I could notice the blessings in the chai, and am very curious how my house will feel when they are hanging on the wall. We all go by the beard Lama to say good bye, get some more blessings and he tells us we will be remembered when he does his prayer and meditation for the TARA, the green Tara. She is the goddess for material wealth or gain also. I am curious... I am the last to leave and the Lama asks for my name specially. He keeps telling me he is going to remember me, looking me straight in my eyes, while I carefully walk backwards to the door. I think this man must feel sometimes lonely, while everybody reveres him as a saint, unlike the man he is. He is married and has kids, but... I leave the room and feel full of energy, warm and quiet. Was that the Tibetan chai we had? Or the noodles? LOL. We head back to Katmandu. I decide to stay while Ronnie and Stacey and Tischa head back to Bhaktapur. I promised the Thanka shop keeper to come by and show him my master pieces. He shows me again the differences between the artists and is pushing me to buy a Thanka from him. One he wanted to sell for one Lakh (NRs 100.000) and I tell him I bought enough and am only ready to pay NRs 70.000. I leave the shop when he says OK. Now I have to buy it. So I did.... HELP! I get back to Bhaktapur, bring my Thanka's for packing to the Thanka school, get Tischa and head for the hotel. It's siesta time. We have a little rest before we go out to a nice restaurant where they serve the food for all at ones. That's a change. The prices are a bit higher, but it's worth the luxury of eating together... It's bed time again, and when we walk back in the dark we see the sky with thousands of stars. Tischa is in aw. Wow!

   We are in Katmandu now. Yesterday I went to see goodbye to all friends, and went to the Internet shop to look for the orphanage 'Hamro Jivan' (http://www.hamrojivan.org ), the orphanage where the children were sexually molested by this Dutch guy who ran the place. There have been some articles in the newspaper about this, and had asked Ronnie before if he wanted to do a show for them. I found their website and wrote down their address. Back in the hotel I pack everything. I had a bag customized to have the Thanka's in, which are rolled up inside a pvc tube. Ronnie and Stacey come along to Katmandu, as is Pradeep. The family of pradeep is there to say goodbye. Even the hotel owner has a goodbye present for me, a little wood carved window with a peacock. We made an impression here, and we will keep in contact through our e-mail. In Katmandu we take a little more expensive hotel. I want the last days with Tischa in luxury. After getting our stuff in the room we head for the orphanage. Ronnie is doing a show, and I bought the drinks and sweets. Lets give them a party! Two Dutch girls get us from the place where we made the appointment, and we are updated about the story. It's a small building with a few floors, all rooms with double beds and a big gathering room. Before Ronnie starts he has to prepare, and I take the opportunity to make an interview with the girls. They are fantastic. Just after high school and being in such a mess, trying to do the best for these kids! The girl I interview initiated the investigation, and is organizing the reorganization with the Nepali government and different organizations. Children are big business here, and they have serious tough situations to deal with. I have serious respect for them. I am keeping myself from crying, trying to focus on the interview, and later the photo shoot. This is so bad. These kids are seriously being sexually abused, and I can see it in their looks and behavior. Ronnie gets his show started, and the kids get into the whole story, getting one balloon after the other looking like monkey's, guitars, fancy hats, fish and rod, etc. I try to get good pictures of them and a small video to get to the Dutch media. I am struggling inside, not to get emotional. I feel so helpless for them. Tischa is watching the whole thing, and I explain a bit about these kids background. The Dutch girls are happy and thank full that we came by, as were the kids. Outside Stacy and me let a tear. We leave for Thamel, Katmandu, to get my last Thanka and say goodbye to Ronnie and Stacey, who will be going back to Bhaktapur. It started raining again. Stacey loves my Thanka. It's huge, and the tailor has done a great job on the material. Tischa and me leave for dinner and ATM. We will see Ronnie and Stacey on Sunday, when we leave for Holland again. It really started to rain now, and I decide to step into the travel agency to cancel the trip. River rafting with Tischa in the rain is not something I look forward too. They promised with rain we would get our money back, but he refuses. We can get only partly back, and I really get annoyed. This is a rip off. It gets seriously loud, but after a call with Ronnie and Pradeep, threatening with the tourist police, I settle with the loss. I have better things to do. Tischa and me get on the road looking for a nice restaurant, when I see 6 kids using glue. It has been in the local newspapers and Ronnie told me about it, but here I see them on the pavement in public, breathing in and out of small plastic bags. I go to them and tell them to quit this, because it will kill them! I tough them, address each of them trying to get them to understand how dangerous it is for them to do this. They only call back for food, and point to the local supermarket. I walk over there with one of the kids, wanting to buy him some food when more kids walk in. It is terrible to see this, and I talk to the owner of the Supermarket. I give him NRs 1000, and ask him to give them everyday some fruit or bread, but only if they don't smell of glue, look straight, and keep off this shit. They help. I ask the kids for their bags of glue, and give some rupees for each bag. I give the bags to the shopkeeper to throw away, and walk away. So sad. We get into the Thanka shop where my Thanka is hanging and my tears break out. What can I do. Develop your heart, the Dalai Lama says, and yes, my heart is glowing. I do what I can, asking the shop keeper to do the same with his neighborhood kids. We are hungry and go out for some food. Pffff.... Back in the hotel we watch some TV. I fall asleep. Not for a long time though. My allergy starts again. O no! Not another night without sleep. And here I am, in the morning, no sleep, at opening time of the Internet cafe.

   It's now only hours before we return. Yesterday Tischa and me stayed in Katmandu, roaming the streets. Got another Thanka! Bought some statues and more presents. In the afternoon we went to the zoo. The closest place to get an elephant ride. Tischa is Tip-Top. It's only a walk through the zoo, but it's great fun. We give the elephant cookies, and I play with it's large penis in it's face... Huge! We walk through the zoo, but not much compared to the well subsidized zoo's of Holland. She gets into the local roller coaster, which is all but exiting. She screams though, so the picture is complete. The traffic in Katmandu is like a continues traffic Jam. Tischa gets herself a horse. I am teaching her to bargain. Every time the man says no and calls another price she comes running back. I tell her to tell him he's crazy by making the sign to her forehead. The laugh and finally she gets what she wants. Another horse for her collection. We buy some presents for her friends and eat a pizza in the local Italian restaurant. Back to bed.

   Today I arranged my confirmation for the flight back, get a mountain view ticket , get my photo's from the shop, get all Thanka's packed and get in the taxi for Patan, where we will meet Ronnie and Stacey again. Patan is not far from Katmandu, and is also a museum. We pay to get into town. The local art is making these bronze gold plated statues with painted faces. I get in this shopping mood again and bargain 4 more statues. My house will look like a monastery when I get back. They are all high quality, and beautiful. Patan is small and beautiful. Today however I am not in the mood to talk with all these guys trying to get you into their shop or business. And their incredible prices... I am a bit annoyed. We eat in a beautiful old building and enjoy telling stories. Tischa is happy, bought a wooden bird, and played with Pradeeps cousin. We make a last round and leave for our hotel in Katmandu. Tomorrow we fly twice, see Ronnie, Stacey and Pradeep for the last time, and go home. My bag with Thanka's weighs 20 kg, and my backpack is getting close to that. Tischa still travels reasonably light. Just arrange good transport and all be well... Hope to see you soon

   Back in Holland now, I have to write the last days. Saturday was a shopping day. We went to Patan where the Nepali have their center for the production of high quality Buddha statues. And yes, I bought a lot. Just spent my money for my altar at home. There will be some pictures on the Internet to see how they look, but I love them. It's like the lama's have in their Puja space, a cupboard with their deities behind glass. Now I have them too at home. We take the whole day, eat at a beautiful old restaurant, take a lot of pictures again, and find a Nepali artist who is honest about his technique making new stuff look old. He is an artist and doesn't rely on lies, as he invents the tricks... How nice to meet you sir.. Tischa buys some statues for her friends, and for herself. We head back to Katmandu. The last night in Katmandu we walk the streets, and a guy comes over asking if I want to buy some hashish. I tell him he doesn't have the quality, and mention Temple Balls. He persuades me to come into a small alley and puts us at a table while we wait for his friend. I want to show Tischa how this business is here in Nepal. We are sitting opposite two little criminals with low moral who are trying to push me some hashish. I ask Tischa what see sees and feels. She is not comfortable with the guys, and I explain them what is happening. After some rejection they get I am not willing to buy at all. They drink their fanta and leave. Also this is part of life...

   Next day we get up at 5.30. Mountain flight in the Himalayan's is in 2 hours... Tischa is in coma, but wants to come along. I dress her and we get a taxi. The airplane is small, and we all get a seat next to a window. The cockpit is open. We wait and wait, and then liftoff. The view is beautiful, and Tischa is playing her Nintendo again. I tell her to put it away for this one hour trip, but she is tired and emotional. Pfff... not now! I straighten her out a bit, and get to enjoy the flight. Pfff, I am glad to be back down. The view was amazing, but we didn't get as close to the mountain as the picture on the poster promised. Well, just another scam... At the airplane I had the strong feeling I had to go to Bodhnath again, the Stupa where the monastery of Dilgo Kyentse Rinpochee would have been... And though we made an appointment with Ronnie and Stacey for eleven at the hotel, we went of for Bodhnath. I will give them a call, and they will understand. At the Stupa I start searching. I park Tischa at a coffee shop, and head for the alleys. If the monastery is here, it should be in this direction. There are no fields anymore but little streets and houses. Everything is build full. I ask a monk, and he helps me to the monastery. Puja is going on, and I have to wait until eleven to go and see upstairs. It seems the incarnation of Dilgo Kyentse Rinpochee is here! ( http://www.dharmafellowship.org/biographies/contemporarymasters/kyabje-dilgo-khyentse.htm) 

   The monk comes with me to the coffee shop where Tischa is enjoying a sprite, and at eleven we head for the monastery again. It has changed tremendously, and I still doubt weather it is the one... The monk has helped us to get white shawls to give and some envelopes for the money to give to the Tulku. When inside I recognize more, and we walk straight in to the waiting hall. There inside a glass space is a wax statue of former Dilgo Kyentse Rinpochee, as he looked when I met him ( https://www.angelfire.com/stars5/shant/nepal.htm). I can show Tischa now whom I met... This is amazing. We have to what very little before we are asked to come in. The thing is, I had no plan, no questions, no idea, and here I am, meeting the incarnation of Dilgo Kyentse Rinpochee. He is a boy, and speaks English. Also this I hadn't anticipated. We sit down, and get some medicine, a rope and a sweet. He asks me if I practice Buddhism, and who are my teachers... I tell him about OSHO, Dheeraj, and Charya, the way we met him in his previous life, and the reason I am here has no reason. He is interested, and is a bit curious about the story. Showing him the hand mudra that brought us there 18 years ago, makes him ask a question about its meaning. The Toblerone I bought at the airport drops out of my pocket, and I ask if he likes some western chocolate. He starts to smile. I should have brought him some toys! Tischa seems to enjoy the whole thing, although I don't know if she gets the whole picture. But she is happy... We leave, and I am totally blissed out. YES!

   We get into a cab heading for the hotel where Ronnie, Stacey and Pradeep are waiting. Just an hour for lunch, and of we go for the airport. I weigh my luggage and I am carrying 55 kg! Well... I feel things will go well. We say goodbye to Ronnie, Stacey and Pradeep and get to the airport. It's going to be a long trip. Checking in they tell me I have 15 kg too much luggage, but tell me to pay only 6 kg at $28 a kg. Ok, no problem! I change some more money, and the bags go in. The waiting and flying starts. We fly through Doha, Frankfurt and Amsterdam, with 4-5 hours stops. But everything goes well. Arrived in Amsterdam the customs lets us pass without a problem... We are home!

Dalai Lama